Jam-Packed Japan

My ambitious itinerary for my tour around The Land of the Rising Sun was jam-packed. Likewise, the country of Japan, itself, was jam-packed with people, attributable to the surge in tourism and the large population in major metropolitan areas, like Tokyo—with over 37 million people.

 

Japan expects over 30 million visitors this year, record numbers post-pandemic. The number of foreign visitors to Japan rose 89% in February from a year earlier to about 2.79 million. March saw over three million foreign tourists.  I imagine the numbers were much higher in April when I was there, based on the crowds, and the lure of the cherry blossoms. 

 

April is a popular time to visit Japan because it is sakura season.  Sakura, the cherry blossoms of Japan, herald the arrival of spring, symbolizing both the fleeting beauty of life and the renewal it brings. The flowering trees in variations of white and pink draw enthusiastic visitors from around the world.

 

Oprah Winfrey recently visited Kyoto and lamented that it was cold and rainy and thus the cherry blossoms were late. If there’s one thing I’ve learned in my extensive globetrotting, it’s not to be married to your expectations, especially with wildlife and nature. Seasoned travelers know they must be flexible and able to quickly pivot due to any variety of changes, delays or cancellations at the last minute for a seemingly endless list of reasons. Winfrey and her girlfriends, who accompanied her, were treated to just a bit of cherry blossoms in bloom on their very last day in Japan. Luckily for me, I saw them in all stages from beginning to full bloom to the turning point where the flower petals are falling off the trees and floating through the air like natural pink confetti.

 

Generally speaking, the cherry blossoms bloom the last week of March and first week of April. Despite being forecasted to bloom early in 2024, they were actually a little late, in relation to average dates. Mother Nature is always in charge. 

 

Before I departed, I was religiously watching the cherry blossom forecast online, especially on Japan-guide.com which updated predictions on the daily. I juxtaposed the map of the cherry blossom forecast with the map of my tour itinerary and hoped and prayed for the best. 

 

The cherry blossoms were an alluring draw to make the reservation for this spring sojourn but the primary purpose of my visit was to see the snow monkeys, which had been on my bucket list for several years. An escorted group tour from Honolulu with Nonstop Travel offered both. 

 

Billed as “Off the Beaten Path: A Different Side of Japan,” the tour package included a plethora of hands-on experiences, including soba noodle making, Imayo Tsukasa Sake Brewery tour and tasting, strawberry picking, green tea field and factory (pack your own canister of tea), Hakone Yosegi-Zaiku box making, and sushi making.  Roundtrip from Tokyo, visits included Omiya, Niigata, Sado Island, Nagano, Matsumoto, Nagoya, Shizuoka, Hakone, Mt. Fuji and Tokyo. I even managed to squeeze in a day trip to Kyoto and Nara by myself.

 

The package included roundtrip airfare from Honolulu, 10 nights hotel, 21 meals, tips for local guides and bus drivers, and all taxes and fees.  Highlights of the tour included JR Super Express Train Ride (bullet train), Northern Culture Museum, Niigata Furusato Village, AEON Mall Niigata Minami, Jet Foil Ride to Sado Island, Oni-Daiko (Demon Drums) Performance, Sado Gold Mine, Japanese Crested Ibis Conservation Center, Tarai-bune Boat Ride, Shukunegi Fishing Village, Jet Foil Ride to Niigata Port, Pia Bandai, Zenko-ji Temple, Hokusaikan Museum, Jigokudani Monkey Park (for Nagano Snow Monkeys), Daio Wasabi Nojo, Matsumoto Castle, Unagi Pie Factory, Michi-no-Eki Stand Kakegaw, Owakudani, Hakone Ropeway, Mt. Fuji, Ameyoko Shopping, Asakusa Sensoji Temple, and Nakamise Shopping. 

 

I guess they don’t call the company “Nonstop Travel” for nothing.  We were on the go the entire duration of our expedition.

 

While sitting in the Japan Airlines Sakura Lounge at Honolulu International Airport awaiting my departing flight, I began to do my homework. Upon landing in Tokyo, our group would be headed directly to the suburb of Omiya, which happens to be very popular for cherry blossom viewing.

 

Omiya Park is a large green space located in the central and eponymous ward of Saitama City, in the north of the Japanese capital. Renowned for over 1,200 blooming cherry trees in spring, this beautiful urban park is one of the best spots to celebrate hanami near Tokyo. Hanami in Japanese means the practice of viewing cherry blossoms, often with picnics under the trees and with festivals of celebration. I was delighted when my online research showed that Omiya Park was within walking distance of my hotel and the sakura would be in full bloom.

 

As luck would have it, they were lighting the trees in Omiya Park at night for the first time in five years. Thus, I could go and view them upon arrival the first evening of my trip and again early the next morning in the daylight before our tour group headed north. I was able to arrange a taxi to the park in the evening and the driver returned to pick me up and take me back to my hotel after I walked through the park at night. I wandered through the crowds in awe of the never-ending cherry blossoms in full bloom illuminated in the darkness. 

 

I also sampled a Japanese style crepe from one of the many food stalls. Japanese crepes, also known as Japanese street crepes, are a popular sweet treat food in Japan. It’s a large, thin pancake filled with whipped cream, berries, ice cream, and chocolate sauce and rolled into a cone shape. It’s a bit like eating ice cream, but the filling is in the crepe instead of an ice cream cone. We actually have a Japanese style crepe restaurant in Mililani Town where I live in Hawaii, so I had already sampled them before leaving home. Still, it was special to have an authentic Japanese crepe in Japan with sakura blooms among the locals enjoying the spring festival.

 

 

In the taxi on the way back to the hotel, I took copious notes in my iPhone of the landmarks in case I had to walk back the next morning, as I was informed that obtaining taxis in the early morning is “difficult.” Luck was on my side as I was able to secure a taxi around 5:30 a.m. to the park but I would have to walk back. Thus, my Hansel and Gretel notes came in handy, and I was able to walk back to the hotel by myself without getting lost.

 

Despite being jet-lagged, I am grateful that I made myself go to Omiya Park to see the sakura in full bloom both at night and in the early morning sunlight.  Omiya Park gives the surprising impression of walking in a flower forest in early spring. It’s like a real-life fairytale.

 

On our first full day we departed the hotel in Omiya outside of Tokyo after breakfast.  We walked the short distance to the train station and boarded the Shinkansen (bullet train) bound for Niigata.  In Niigata, we toured the Northern Cultural Museum, which is based in the former home of the Ito family that was said to be among the wealthiest of Niigata farmers in their day.

 

For lunch, we visited the Niigata Furusato Village, a multi-purpose tourism facility comprised primarily of a bazaar hall, with a collection of Niigata’s products and delicacies.  I couldn’t resist a “soft cream,” the Japanese way of saying soft serve ice cream.  It would be the first of many soft creams but the only one that came with a sheet of edible gold foil. 

 

I also didn’t pass up my first chance to try Fruits Sando which are basically fruit and whipped cream between thick cut slices of shokupan (Japanese milk bread).  The one I sampled was a darker colored sweet bread with a brown sugar cream and local apples.  Good thing I would be walking excessively on this trip to offset the calories!

 

We visited Aeon Mall Niigata Minami, an enormous three-story shopping mall where I enjoyed a Starbucks with our local guide, Yushi before boarding a jet foil boat to Sado Island.  Sado Island, located off the coast of Niigata Prefecture, is Japan’s second largest island after Okinawa and is known for possessing a rich history and culture. Up until the middle ages, this island served as a place of exile where many influential figures were sent for opposing the government. The isle experienced a boom during the Edo Period when large amounts of gold were discovered and were subsequently mined on an industrial scale. The gold rush brought vast wealth and attracted people from all over Japan, enabling a rich and diverse culture to flourish on the island. 

 

On Sado Island, we spent two nights at the Hotel Yahatakan (a Japanese style inn once visited by the Emperor).  This excursion required us to pack overnight bags and separate from our primary luggage.  Once we got to our rooms we found our yukatas waiting for us.  A yukata is an unlined cotton summer kimono, worn in casual settings such as summer festivals and to nearby bathhouses. We were required to wear our yukatas to the traditional kaiseki dinner and Onidaiko (Demon Drumming) performance.

 

In addition to providing yukatas, the hotel provides slippers.  There was a line of slippers in the entrance hall to my room and a much fancier pair in the bathroom.  Of course, I chose the fancier pair because they reminded me of a Gucci pattern and looked more appropriate to wear to dinner.  I was so embarrassed when one of our fellow tour group members admonished me for wearing “toilet slippers” to dinner. I had no idea that there were separate slippers for the public areas of the inn and a special set for use specifically in the bathroom.  Lesson learned.  Later in the trip at another Japanese-style inn, the slippers in the bathroom actually had the word “TOILET” printed on them.  Obviously, I’m not the first or last to make this mistake if they have to label the “toilet slippers.”

 

At the heart of kaiseki dining is the Japanese principle of shun, or taking ingredients at the peak of their freshness. Dishes are presented simply, without artifice. This is done not only to ensure that the true flavor of each ingredient is expressed, but also to properly display each and every one at the height of their natural beauty, thus creating the perfect synergy between cuisine and artistic expression.  The meals are quite intricate and elaborate but often feature raw fish or whole fish that I don’t enjoy.  I’m not about to eat something that is looking back at me. However, many of my fellow travelers delighted in the kaiseki dinners.

 

The kaiseki dinner was followed by an Onidaiko performance. The Japanese word “Oni” roughly translates to demon or ogre in English, making Westerners think of an evil entity for religious reasons. However, that doesn’t do the notion of Oni on Sado Island justice. On Sado, they are seen as friendly deities that would ward off evil by dancing and playing the taiko drum. This is called “Onidaiko” (demon drumming) – or “Ondeko” in the local dialect.

 

After the kaiseki dinner and Onidaiko perfomance, I had my first onsen experience.  In Japanese, onsen are hot springs and the bathing facilities and traditional inns around them. There are approximately 25,000 hot spring sources throughout Japan, and approximately 3,000 onsen establishments use natural hot water from these geothermally heated springs. Many believe the waters have healing powers.

 

This particular onsen was public but separated by gender.  Bathing suits are not allowed. I didn’t enjoy getting naked in front of others and thought it was a bit off-putting to have shower stools around the perimeter of the room with the central bath.  There were men shaving and washing their hair, and it just wasn’t for me. Later during the trip, I had the option of private onsen which were much better, but I still don’t care for them all that much.  The water is so hot that it makes me overheated, slightly nauseous and dehydrated. 

 

The next morning on Sado Island, we awoke early to a Japanese-style breakfast. I don’t enjoy raw fish, seaweed and rice. Thank God for the croissants on the buffet and the Belvita breakfast biscuits my neighbor, Aunty June thoughtfully packed for me.  After breakfast, I took a short stroll around the pine forest that surrounds the hotel.  Then our group departed for a tour of the Sado Gold Mine, Sado Island’s most important historical site.  Sado Gold Mine was Japan’s largest gold mine and was in operation from 1601, when gold was first discovered, for 388 years until 1989 when mining operations ceased at the site. 

 

We also drove by the Kitazawa flotation field. A flotation plant is a site where the final stages of gold mining takes place. More precisely, it’s where the valuable minerals that get extracted from the mine are separated from all the other things that get dug out, such as waste materials and other bi-products. The flotation process requires vast areas of land as well as huge amounts of energy. As the gold mine of Sado used to be the biggest in the entire East Asian region, it shouldn’t come as a surprise that the flotation plant is a huge structure. Several new techniques that led to a more efficient ore extraction process were also pioneered here.

 

Photo from https://japantravel.navitime.com/en/area/jp/guide/NTJtrv0512-en/

Next on the itinerary was a visit to the Sado Japanese Crested Ibis Conservation Center adjacent to the Toki Forest Park. It was established in the village of Niibo-mura to protect and propagate the bird.  Referred to as toki in Japanese, this symbolic bird has been virtually driven to extinction in Japan. Sado Island is known as the last home to these birds, and we saw several of the beautiful and graceful creatures flying in the wild on our way into and out of the conservation center. 

 

The crested ibis, also known as the Japanese crested ibis, Asian crested ibis or toki, is a large, white-plumaged ibis of pine forests, native to eastern Asia. Its head is partially bare, showing red skin, and it has a dense crest of white plumes on the nape.

 

We worked up an appetite on our morning excursions and we also had to work for our lunch as well.  We experienced a hands-on soba making session at Fureal House Shiozu no Sato.  The dough was made for us, and we had a colorful and animated instructor who demonstrated how to knead, roll-out, fold and cut the dough into strips to make the noodles.  Divided into groups of four, my three fellow team members nominated me to do the heavy lifting.  “I don’t cook at home, why would I cook on vacation?” I said to my team, but the rest of the tour group overheard me and erupted into laughter. 

 

Soba are Japanese noodles made primarily from buckwheat flour, with a small amount of wheat flour mixed in. It has an ashen brown color, and a slightly grainy texture. The noodles are served either chilled with a dipping sauce, or hot in a noodle soup.

 

In the midst of kneading and rolling out our dough, the instructor ran up to our table shouting, “No. No. No. No. No.” before jumping in to fix the dough into a more suitably uniform shape.  After we finished making the noodles, they disappeared into the back kitchen to be cooked.  Our noodles were served cold with a broth topped with green onions along with shrimp and vegetable tempura on the side.

 

The adventures were not done for the day as we made a short drive south to enjoy a Tarai-bune boat ride. The Tarai-bune boats are one of Sado’s most famous sights. Originally made from washtubs, the boats are said to have been invented in 1868. The design originated from the need to fish in narrow coves formed by earthquakes. After a lot of improvements and effort, they have changed their shape over the years to their current form. A female rower will operate the boat for you, so you can enjoy it without worrying about flipping over or drifting off.

 

I bought perhaps the most useful and practical souvenir at the gift shop near the Tarai-bune boats—a change purse.  Accumulating so many yen in coin form becomes cumbersome and difficult to manager, so a change purse comes in handy.  In fact, I’d say it is an absolute necessity, along with comfortable shoes for the exorbitant amount of walking required in Japan.

 

Next, we visited the charming fishing village of Shukunegi.  The entire village is designated a National Historic Site.  Strolling along the narrow streets of Shukunegi Village allowed us to feel the history and experience the living conditions of people during the Edo Period on Sado Island.

 

Later that evening, I was relieved that our dinner would take us to Ajisai French restaurant located inside of a newer, more modern hotel.  The multi-course western-style meal began with quiche followed by cream of celery soup, salmon, tonkatsu (panko encrusted pork cutlet), and a brownie dessert with espresso on the side. It was heavenly for me, especially after my limited choices at dinner the night before and breakfast that morning.

 

The only day that we had bad weather was the perfect day to have it.  In fact, if we could have chosen which day to have rain, it was the day we traveled from Sado Island back to Niigata on the jet foil boat.  Once back in Niigata, we enjoyed some free time at Pia Bandai, a market that features fresh fish caught off the coast of Sado Island, sushi, and the largest fresh produce market on the coast of the Sea of Japan. Japan is an archipelago, or string of islands, on the eastern edge of Asia. There are four main islands: Hokkaido, Honshu, Shikoku, and Kyushu.  Because it is surrounded by the Pacific Ocean, the Sea of Okhotsk, the Sea of Japan, and the East China Sea, seafood is most prevalent.

 

 

I found a coffee shop at Pia Bandai where I enjoyed a satisfying latte and a chocolate soft cream as well as slice of Baumkuchen, which is a kind of spit cake from German cuisine. It is also a popular dessert in Japan. The characteristic rings that appear in its slices resemble tree rings, and give the cake its German name, Baumkuchen, which literally translates to “tree cake” or “log cake.” The slice I chose was sakura in celebration of the cherry blossoms.  There are many food items and other products throughout Japan that celebrate sakura season.

 

 

Niigata Prefecture is renowned in Japan as the best area for growing rice and fermenting sake due to its deep snow and abundance of clear, pure water.  My neighbor’s mom was from Niigata and affirmed they have the best rice in the world.  Our tour escort presented each of us with a package of Niigata rice from Pia Bandai to bring home.

 

Next, we toured the Imayo Tsukasa Sake Brewery, where they still use the traditional way of brewing sake.  They only use the basic ingredients to brew sake without any artificial ingredients, thus producing 100% pure rice sake.

 

We departed Niigata for a three-hour drive to Nagano where we were reunited with our “check-in” luggage and enjoyed a large dinner buffet with food that looked better than it tasted during our one-night stay in the Western-style Hotel Metropolitan Nagano.  After dinner, most of us ventured across the street to Don Quijote, the largest discount store in Japan.  We also have Don Quijote stores in Hawaii so we were familiar with the concept though the merchandise differs slightly.  It was the perfect opportunity to purchase omiyage. The simplest definition for omiyage is gifts you bring back to your family, friends, and co-workers upon returning from a trip. I took this opportunity to buy souvenir refrigerator magnets and Kit Kats to take back to the office.  Kit Kats in Japan come in a variety of unusual flavors (orange chocolate, milk tea, strawberry, and matcha to name a few) and make for popular souvenirs.

 

Following a huge breakfast buffet—with an espresso machine, thank God—we headed off to pick strawberries at a local farm.  In Japan, strawberries are usually grown in greenhouses, enabling them to be enjoyed for almost half a year, as they can be picked from December to early May. According to Japan’s Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, Japan has over 312 varieties of strawberries!

 

After satisfying our sweet tooth on perfectly red strawberries, we visited Nagano’s Zeno-ji Temple, one of the most important and popular temples in Japan. It was founded in the 7th century and stores the first Buddhist statue ever to be brought into Japan when Buddhism was first introduced in the 6th century. The modern city of Nagano began as a town built around the temple.  While there, we were treated to beautiful pink sakura, which provided a picturesque backdrop for a young bride and groom dressed in ceremonial wedding kimonos posing for their wedding photos.

 

After a pleasurable stroll around the temple, we enjoyed some time exploring Nakamise Street to enjoy lunch and shopping. The name of this street in Nagano literally translates to “shops on the inside,”alluding to their location on the Zenko-ji Temple complex. This dynamic souvenir street leads the way to Zenkoji’s main hall and you’ll find everything from Japanese sweets and dumplings, to umbrellas, kimonos, Buddhist prayer beads and ornaments. There’s even a Starbucks. For lunch I enjoyed katsudon. Katsudon is a fried, panko-breaded pork cutlet with egg over rice and a favorite of Japanese restaurant-goers.

 

Finally, we explored the Hokusai Museum where we learned about Japan’s most famous artist, renowned master of ukiyo-e woodblock prints, Katsushika Hokusai. Known simply as Hokusai, he was prominent during the Edo period, active as a painter and printmaker. He is best known for the woodblock print series, “Thirty-Six Views of Mount Fuji,” which includes the iconic print, “The Great Wave off Kanagawa.” I got my partner, Sam a T-Shirt with the popular wave design.

Photo from https://hokusai-museum.jp/modules/Exhibition/exhibitions/view/3731

Our home for the night was a Japanese-style inn, Ryokan Biyunoyado, where, much to my disappointment, there were no western-style beds so I had to sleep on the floor.  The “toilet slippers,” however, were clearly marked so I avoided further embarrassment before dressing in my yukata for another kaiseki dinner. 

Following dinner, I enjoyed a private, outdoor, rooftop onsen. When I got overheated, at least I could get out and cool down in the chilly air. The privacy was an added bonus.

While checking out of the hotel the next morning, I was talking with our hostess, Yuki.  When I handed over my American Express to pay for my gift shop treasures (including homemade ginger miso), she said, “That’s a nice card.  Is it Delta?” I said yes, and, as it turns out, in addition to being an owner of the inn, Yuki is also a flight attendant with Delta.  She flies with our cousin, Germaine who also works for Delta and she owns a condo in Honolulu. She gifted me with a T-shirt and we vowed to reunite in Hawaii for lunch.  Small world!

I could hardly contain my excitement as our bus made its way from the inn to the Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park.  The snow monkeys had been on my bucket list for many years since seeing them on TV so I was busting at the seams.

 

Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park is located in the valley of the Yokoyu-River, in the northern part of the Nagano prefecture. The name Jigokudani, meaning “Hell’s Valley,” is due to the steam and boiling water that bubbles out of small crevices in the frozen ground, surrounded by steep cliffs and formidably cold and hostile forests.

 

It is famous for its large population of wild Japanese macaques, more commonly referred to as snow monkeys, that go to the valley during the winter, foraging elsewhere in the national park during the warmer months. The monkeys descend from the steep cliffs and forest to sit in the warm waters of the onsen (hot springs) and return to the security of the forests in the evenings.

 

As we were hiking though the forest to see the monkeys, I was walking alongside our local guide, Amy (a retired schoolteacher) when a motor scooter came by, and the person driving stopped to talk to Amy. She told me it was one of her former students who now worked at the park.  The former student said there were no monkeys so far today.  Wait. What? No monkeys? At the snow monkey park?  I had a panic attack, but I kept walking and began to pray.  Amy told me that she’d never been to the snow monkey park when there weren’t any monkeys.  She said if there weren’t any monkeys we’d receive a special souvenir.  I didn’t want a souvenir. I hadn’t spent all this money and time to get a souvenir.  I wanted to see the monkeys. Again, I continued to pray as I walked, “Please, God, let us see the monkeys.  Even if it’s just one or two.”

 

At the end of the trail there’s a steep set of stairs that you have to climb to enter the park.  After passing through the admission station, I saw monkeys!  Thank you, God!  I love monkeys and they didn’t disappoint.  They have their cute little babies in the spring, and they were playing on the rocks all around us. Some of them were even frolicking around and in the onsen (hot springs).  It was definitely worth the hike along the slightly muddy incline through the forest to see these majestic creatures in their native habitat.

 

After a delightful encounter with the snow monkeys, we made our way to Matsumoto Castle. For over 400 years, Matsumoto Castle has stood proudly in the center of Matsumoto City. While it was built during the Warring States Period, it never saw battle, and instead of becoming a symbol of war, it became a symbol of the people who worked so hard to protect it.

 

The castle is a National Treasure, not just because it is one of the few surviving castles left in Japan, but also because of its beauty and its unique construction. Both first-time visitors to Japan and seasoned castle enthusiasts can appreciate its chic black-and-white exterior and the majestic Japan Alps in the distance.

 

Located in the Circum-Pacific “ring of fire,” Japan is predominantly mountainous – about three-fourths of the national land is mountains – and long mountain ranges form the backbone of the archipelago. The dramatic Japan Alps, studded with 10,000-foot peaks, bisect the central portion of Honshu, the main island.

 

In addition to the Alps in the distance, the cherry blossoms were in their first full-day of blooming and offered pleasing additions to photo ops of the castle and the surrounding moat. 

Our local guide told us we wouldn’t have time to tour inside the castle, however, I followed some of my fellow tour members into the Tower.  I saw them standing in line and then I saw some more of my traveling companions inside as well.  I kept following the queue, ascending higher and higher up the Tower, which had extremely steep steps that eventually became like climbing an enormous ladder.  I couldn’t exit until I made my way to the top in the queue and proceeded back down. This was an extremely slow process and I panicked as I saw how close I was getting to the scheduled meeting time at our bus, and I no longer recognized anyone from our group.

To make matters worse, the guard held up a long line of us trying to get down in order to let another group come up.  This further delayed me.  Once I was outside of the Tower, I ran like “Chariots of Fire” until I was totally out of breath but able to see the bus.  Fortunately, I wasn’t the last one back, but I had no time for a toilet break.

Our next stop of the day was at Daibo Wasabi Nojo, one of Japan’s largest wasabi farms and popular tourist destinations located in rural Azumino City near Matsumoto.  We had a plethora of items on our pre-set menu, including towers of rice baskets decorating the tables. I particularly enjoyed mixing the fresh wasabi with my rice and some soy sauce (which we call shoyu in Hawaii).  It was so funny because my new friends on the tour learned of my dislike of raw and whole fish.  They all ate the fish and gave me their pork tenderloin.  By the time the meal was over, I had four or five of the empty pork plates stacked in front of me making me look like a real pig!

 

But this kind gesture is demonstrative of the aloha spirit.  It was wonderful traveling with a group from Hawaii because everyone brought their aloha with them.  They were an amazing, warm, welcoming, friendly and courteous group of folks.  Have you ever been on a group tour where someone buys you lunch just because they “enjoy your company?”  Or treat you to soft cream for breakfast?  I’ve never experienced anything like it in all of my travels.  They say it’s not just about the journey but who you travel with that matters, and this group really added to the experience.

 

Upon departing the wasabi farm, we had a three-hour drive to Nagoya.  Nagoya is a major urban center between Tokyo and Kyoto and a gateway for accessing Kanazawa, Takayama and other destinations in the Hokuriku region. The capital city of the Aichi prefecture, Nagoya is home to 2.3 million people. I had no idea Nagoya was so huge!

 

We enjoyed an elaborate dinner buffet at the Pergola restaurant on the 15th floor of the Nagoya Marriott Associa Hotel, with crab legs and prime rib from the chef’s carving station.  The desserts were incredible, too, with an ice cream that was topped with what looked like noodles but were the consistency of ice cream or cake frosting.  They even had Perrier, much to my delight.  Even though the countless vending machines all over the country offer so many choices, sparkling water was not an option that was readily available.  The Marriott was attached to the train station, and I was so disappointed we weren’t staying there because I was leaving the group the next day to depart from the train station for a private tour of Kyoto and Nara.

 

Instead, we drove 15 minutes to the Nagoya Tokyu Hotel, which was adequate but not as nice as the Marriott.  Also, it required another 15 minute commute back to the train station in the morning.  Fortunately, our tour group escort, Mike Lindo, who accompanied our group of 30 round trip from Honolulu, made sure our local guide communicated with the hotel staff that I needed a taxi to the train station at 6:30 a.m.

 

Upon arriving at the train station, I followed the step-by-step instructions (that also included photos) and was able to obtain my Shinkansen (bullet train) ticket from a machine using the QR code I obtained when I pre-booked on Klook.com. I still had plenty of time before my 8:00 a.m. train to Kyoto but I wasn’t quite sure where to go.  As I stood in line waiting for Starbucks to open (they don’t open until 7:00 a.m. in Japan), I noticed a young lady.  I began using google translate on my phone to communicate and ask her if she could help me find my train.   Her name was Mai and she was my guardian angel—an answer to my prayers. 

 

Thankfully, she had enough time and was willing to assist.  I treated her to a Starbucks and then she showed me the way to my train.  I thanked her using google translate and she said, “When we are in trouble we help each other.” This is something we should remember not just while traveling but also in everyday life. This is one of many ways that Japan and Hawaii are similar—the warm and caring nature of the people and their compassionate attitude toward one another.  It’s not surprising that so many people from Hawaii visit Japan and vice versa.

 

Google translate is a wonderful and useful tool to communicate.  You can type or speak what you want to say in English and voila it pops up in Japanese.  You just show your phone to the other person. It helps overcome the language barrier, which I found to be more challenging than in most of the other countries that I have visited. Many people in Japan are either unable or unwilling to speak English and the signage and menus have limited English.  Google translate will also work on images so you can take photos of menus, train tickets, etc. and have them translated into English.

 

In order to utilize google translate, however, you must have internet access.  When I travel internationally, I turn off the cellular data on my phone and only utilize free wi-fi. I found a wonderful and useful free app called “Japan Wi-Fi” that I downloaded and once you register, it automatically connects you to available free wi-fi wherever you travel throughout Japan.

 

Having benefitted greatly from google translate and my guardian angel, Mai, once I was onboard the train from Nagoya to Kyoto, I could breathe a sigh of relief and enjoy a Tamago Sando that I purchased at the train station. Tamago Sando is Japanese for egg salad sandwich. They are scrumptious little sandwiches made on Japanese milk bread with no crusts.  The bread is slightly sweet and the egg salad also has a touch of sugar in it, in addition to Japanese Kewpie mayonnaise.  I survived on these sandwiches throughout my trip when I couldn’t eat what was served or I ran out of time to go to a restaurant for a meal.  They sell them at all the convenience stores. They paired well with the Cheez-It crackers I brought from home. I always bring snacks from home just in case.

 

We were on the move constantly and here I was substituting a completely separate day tour to my journey. The itinerary on the group tour in Nagoya that day wasn’t particularly appealing to me, which included touring the Toyota Museum and Noritake Porcelain Factory.  Instead, I had pre-planned a private tour of Kyoto by myself.  I figured if it was only 34 minutes by bullet train, I would regret not seeing Kyoto because it is more historical and traditional.

 

Friends of mine who were recently in Japan had posted videos of deer on Instagram. I was intrigued and did my research.  As it turns out, the deer are in Nara Deer Park which is not too far from Kyoto.  To no one’s surprise, including myself, I suddenly found myself adding even more to my plate, but I wanted to see as much as possible and figured I could sleep when I got back home.  Thus, I had to arrange for a different guide than the one I had booked in advance and replace him with one who was willing to add Nara to my already overly-ambitious Kyoto itinerary. 

 

I found my new guide, Taka, online via “Tours by Locals,” and he responded to my email request for a day tour of both Nara and Kyoto. Taka met me at the Kyoto station upon my arrival fully prepared with a typed itinerary and maps.  We immediately began a dizzying day of playing zig-zag from train to train and train to subway and vice vera, but we managed to cover everything, beginning with Nara Deer Park, which was about a 45-minute train ride from Kyoto.

 

Considered the messengers of the gods, Nara’s over 1,000 free-roaming deer have become a symbol of the city and have even been designated as a National Treasure. Deer crackers are for sale around the park, and some deer have learned to bow to visitors to ask to be fed.  It’s like something out of a children’s storybook. In fact, my friend who posted the videos on Instagram that first lured me in, said she felt like Snow White.

 

Nara’s deer are surprisingly tame, although they can be aggressive if they think you will feed them, so make sure not to tease them with food.  Indeed, one of them came up from behind and bit me on the ass!  When I turned around to see the culprit and give him a cracker another deer grabbed ahold of my shirt from the front. They’re almost as demanding as my dogs when it comes to treats.

 

Established in 1880, the park is the location of many of Nara’s main attractions including Todaiji, Kasuga Taisha, Kofukuji and the Nara National Museum. Todaji Temple is the largest wooden structure in Japan and home of the tallest Buddha in the country, standing at almost 50 feet.

 

Kyoto is the most rewarding city in Japan and a place all travelers should visit at least once in their lives. It’s the best place in the country to experience traditional temples, shrines, gardens, geisha, shops, festivals and restaurants. Kyoto has become so popular that it’s difficult to navigate the overwhelming crowds of tourists, many who rent kimonos to pose for photos.

 

Highlights of my day included Arashiyama Bamboo Forest, one of Kyoto’s top sights and for good reason. Standing amid these soaring stalks of bamboo is like being in another world. These giants make our bamboo in Hawaii look like pencils.

 

On our walk from the train station to the bamboo forest, I spotted an American hamburger joint where a young man was grilling the hamburgers on an open air hibachi grill in the front of the main floor of the restaurant, with the smell of the freshly grilled meat wafting into the street and drawing me in by the nose (and stomach).  We stopped on the way back and indulged in burgers and fries.  You order downstairs then ascend a steep little staircase to the tiny rooms upstairs where there are maybe half a dozen tables, and they play 1980’s American pop music.  It was heavenly. All of this while pink petals from the tail end of the cherry blossoms floated through the air.  Eat your heart out, Oprah!

 

Yasaka Shrine, also known as Gion Shrine, is one of the most famous shrines in Kyoto. Founded over 1,350 years ago, the shrine is located between the popular Gion and Higashiyama districts and is often visited by tourists walking between the two. The shrine’s main hall combines the honden (inner sanctuary) and haiden (offering hall) into a single building. In front of it stands a dance stage with hundreds of lanterns that get lit in the evenings. Taka and I stopped to take a selfie with the lanterns providing a dramatic backdrop.

 

The Higashiyama District along the lower slopes of Kyoto’s eastern mountains is one of the city’s best preserved historic districts. It is a great place to experience traditional old Kyoto, especially between Kiyomizudera and Yasaka Shrine, where the narrow lanes, wooden buildings and traditional merchant shops invoke a feeling of the old capital city. Yasaka Street is an iconic historical street located in the heart of Higashiyama District, popular as one of the most photogenic spots in Kyoto. The 5-story tall Yasaka pagoda is the last remaining structure of a 6th-century temple complex known as Hokan Temple.

Kyoto’s famous Pontocho district centers on a long, paved alley lined with traditional wooden buildings. A narrow street straddling the Kamogawa River, it is Kyoto’s busiest nightlife spot. We were too early for the dinner crowds so it was still quiet.

 

We stopped to refuel at Starbucks Coffee Kyoto Ninenzaka Yasaka Chaya, which is the world’s first Starbucks store inside of a traditional Japanese house with tatami (mat) seating. From planning to opening, it took ten years to actualize the concept coffee house. Finding the perfect place was more complicated than expected since most traditional Japanese buildings are small and cannot fit a colossal coffee shop, so reforming an old building was a challenge that required cooperation from the local government.

 

Lastly, I visited Fushimi Inari-Taisha Shrine. It is famous for its thousands of vermilion torii gates, which straddle a network of trails behind its main buildings leading to the wooded forest of the sacred Mount Inari. Fushimi Inari Shrine is commonly referred to as the Temple of 10,000 Gates. From there, Taka took me to Kyoto Station where we had begun nine hours earlier and helped me book a return Shinkansen ticket back to Nagoya.

 

It was a particularly exhausting and ambitious itinerary that day. I walked over 24,000 steps in Kyoto and Nara alone. The exhaustion will fade but the memories will last, I told myself.

 

I got back to the hotel and ate some of my egg salad sandwiches and watched Japanese television.  They have some of the craziest shows on Japanese TV, something of a cross between a talk show, game show and talent competition. The same show seemed to be on every night where they would overeat, stick their hands in a fish tank with an electric eel and engage in all sorts of unlimited, mindless stunts and shenanigans.  I had no idea what was going on, but their enthusiasm and absurdity made it hard to turn off the television and try to snooze for a few hours before launching into another ambitious full-day schedule, usually in a different city.

 

The itinerary moved us from Nagoya to Hakone via Shizuoka.  Along the the way to Hakone we stopped at Unagi Pie Factory and also at a green tea farm and factory where we packed our own canister of tea.  The Unagi Pies are more like cookies, and they incorporate powdered eel from the local lakes into the dough to make it sweeter. 

 

Our lunch stop was at Michi-no-Eki Stand Kakegawa.  Not only do they provide a clean and convenient rest stop with quick and tasty food, but they also have some shopping opportunities, providing omiyage (souvenir gifts) for tourists and fresh produce for locals.  I ordered my tonakatsu (pork cutlet) ramen (noodle soup) from a vending machine that spat out a ticket which I took to the counter.  They gave me a beeper and I waited until it lit up and retrieved my meal.  When you’re finished, you return your tray. Mostly, Japan is very orderly, polite and clean. You are responsible for your own rubbish.  In fact, there is often no place to dispose of trash on the streets so many people carry a bag with them to collect their rubbish and dispose of it upon return home or to a hotel. 

 

Despite being impeccably clean, I found that in addition to the lack of trash receptacles, there are also no paper towels in the restrooms.  Some have hand dryers but oftentimes you are left with wet hands (consider carrying a handkerchief for hand drying). I find this surprising in light of the other advancements and comforts in Japan.  For example, virtually every bathroom has a bidet-style toilet with warm water to clean your tush.  The first time I visited Asia eight years ago, I ordered a Toto Washlet for my home, and I’ve had them ever since.  They are a modern convenience that have become a necessity for those in the know. Even the jet foil boat had a bidet and I believe Japan Airlines is the only airline with bidets in the lavatories.

 

A highlight of the road trip was catching a glimpse of the elusive and majestic Mt. Fuji, which is a symbol of Japan’s natural beauty and good fortune. It is an active volcano. Japanese speakers refer to the mountain as “Fuji-san.” Among the several theories about the source of the name is that it is derived from an Ainu term meaning “fire,” coupled with san, the Japanese word for “mountain.” Mt. Fuji is visible 70 days a year on average, and we ended up having two of those lucky days in a row.   

 

In Hakone we had one night at the Yumoto Fujita Hotel.  Hakone, in Japan’s Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park west of Tokyo, is a mountainous town known for its hot springs resorts (onsen) and views of the iconic volcano Mt. Fuji. It also encompasses Hakone Shrine, a Shinto shrine with a red torii gate overlooking Lake Ashi, which can be toured by boat, as well as the boiling sulphur springs of the Owakudani Valley. 

 

At the hotel I enjoyed a private onsen but again, it was just too hot for me. I find it almost overwhelming and exhausting.  It’s difficult to cool down afterwards.  However, I was able to book a massage after the onsen which was very much needed after all the travel. My neck was so tight, most likely because I passed out every night from exhaustion.  Additionally, the pillows in Japan are quite odd and uncomfortable.

 

The Sobakawa pillow is filled with 100-percent buckwheat hulls. It has been used extensively throughout the Orient for hundreds of years and is still the pillow of choice in Japan. Buckwheat hulls are believed to offer therapeutic benefits far superior to traditional foam and feather pillows. Often, we had a combination, where half the pillow was traditional stuffing while the other half was Sobakawa style.  I didn’t they were very comfortable.

 

The hotel provided an extravagant breakfast buffet with many Western items that I enjoy, along with an espresso machine. Although I don’t eat breakfast at home, I find it necessary to fuel the body when engaging in such busy days on tours. Our tummies full, we were off to experience making Hakone Yosegi Zaiku marquetry, an inlaid and mosaic woodwork unique to this area. 

 

Craftsmen have made full use of the wealth of wood colors and textures found in the mountains of Hakone to produce their elaborate geometric patterns.  We each made a coaster and mine came out much better than I expected, although I did minor in fine art in college.  For an extra 100 yen (65 cents) you could purchase a souvenir wooden pice with an etched design to insert into your craft project. I bought one with Mt. Fuji.

 

Mt. Fuji graced us with her divine presence for two glorious days in a row, filling us with awe and wonder and igniting our spirits with joy and hope.  Having seen her on our way to Hakone the previous day, on this morning she first appeared above the Shinto Shrine with the red torii gate overlooking Lake Ashi.  You could see the snow on top of the mountain as she played peek-a-boo with us.  Everyone on the bus gasped at the first sight of this breathtaking view.

 

Next, we had to fight our way through Sunday traffic to the Hakone Ropeway.  It’s a popular attraction for tourists and locals alike, particularly on a clear, sunny day, which we fortunately had plenty of. The Hakone Ropeway is the name of an aerial lift, as well as its operator. The funitel line links between Sounzan and Togendai via Owakudani, all within Hakone, Kanagawa, Japan. The line became a funitel in 2002, the second of its kind in the nation. Between Sounzan Station and Owakudani Station, there is a place where the ropeway passes over the valley around 426 feet above the ground, offering stunning scenery of the impressive valley floor below with steam vents pluming from the boiling sulphur springs, which are used for the onsen, as well ask Lake Ashi.

 

On a clear day such as the one we were experiencing, the grand, beautiful Mt. Fuji can be seen from Owakudani and the ropeway.  Unfortunately, we didn’t get out of the ropeway at the platform that offered the most breathtaking views of Mt. Fuji so we couldn’t spend time in awe or snap any Instagram-able photos.  However, the beautiful image is forever etched in our minds as we passed by poking each other and whispering in awe. On the drive to the restaurant for lunch, Mt. Fuji landscapes came and went and we oohed and aahed, trying to get photos along the way. One particularly beautiful memory is when we drove down a lane under a canopy of blooming sakura with Mt. Fuji in the distance above which was impossible to photograph from the bus. Later on we stopped and took some photos of the 12,388-foot high Fuji-san.

 

Lunch that day consisted of a multi-ethnic buffet at a beer garden called Gotemba Kogen Beer Biking Mugibatake where one of the best dishes was udon. Udon is a type of thick noodle from Japan that is typically made from wheat flour. It is frequently served in soups with a variety of broths and toppings or served in a simple, clear broth with a sprinkle of spring onions. It was oishii (delicious).  My American taste buds were also satisfied as the chef cooked steak on a hibachi grill and served it up next to a basket of French fries. The approach to the restaurant offered a beautiful landscape with a creek and sakura blooms. There were also young students playing baseball at the park next door.

 

We were supposed to ascend to the 5th station at 7,500 feet up Mt. Fuji but the road was closed due to a recent landslide.  We simply wouldn’t have had time anyway because the drive to Tokyo was three hours with extreme traffic.  Indeed, we seemed to stop and go for many miles on the multi-lane highway.  I listened to Barbra Streisand’s recent memoir in audiobook format on my ear buds to pass the time.  I hate road trips but sometimes you have no choice. At least I was a passenger and didn’t have to drive.

 

After arriving at the Daiba area of Tokyo we checked into the nicest hotel of our journey, the Grand Nikko Tokyo Daiba.  Accessed via the Rainbow Bridge or the futuristic Yurikamome train, Daiba is a high-tech entertainment hub on an artificial island in Tokyo Bay. It seems a little quieter compared to other areas of this overwhelming, sprawling metropolis with a population over 37 million, making it the largest city in the world.

 

We enjoyed an izakaya-style dinner at Warawara, a local izakaya restaurant, with our group. An izakaya is a type of informal Japanese bar that serves alcoholic drinks and snacks. Izakaya are casual places for after-work drinking, similar to a pub, a Spanish tapas bar, or an American saloon or tavern.

 

Some izakaya specialize in fish or meat while others may feature regional favorites. Some items that are available at most izakaya are sashimi platters, karaage, yakisoba noodles and edamame (green pod soybeans), which pair well with beer and sake.

 

Our table was set when we arrived with an overflowing spread of sashimi, salad, tempura, chicken skewers and a steel pot filled with cabbage, bean sprouts, green onions and thinly sliced beef in broth.  The steel pot sat atop a a gas burner the waiter lit so we cooked the ingredients at our table in the simmering broth.  They served delicious little ice cream sandwiches for dessert that were like ice cream stuffed pastries. 

 

Photos from warawara minato city photos https://g.co/kgs/R9WnYfy

The hotel offered nice soaking tubs in the large marble bathrooms complete with bath salts.  I drew my bath while watching the crazy TV shows then went to bed. 

 

I was always delighted when the breakfast buffet was more American style. Two mornings in a row I was able to have an omelette to order from the chef’s station and they had American bacon. Most of the bacon in Japan is more like sliced, cooked ham, which was tasty with croissants but not the same as real bacon.  Fortunately, they had an espresso machine at this hotel as well.  Those preferring traditional Japanese fare were offered a set sushi menu in a different dining venue.

 

Prior to embarking on this adventure, I had done my research and worked with a private tour guide to arrange a full day tour of Tokyo’s highlights on the only day of the group tour that we had free time.  After picking me up at my hotel, Ack and I took the train to the Toyosu area, consisting of a fish and produce market that mostly supplies restaurants and also boasts a newly opened facility showcasing Japanese culture with restaurants and shops.  I bought my partner, Sam a high-quality kitchen knife made from Japanese Ibaraki Steel. Each knife comes sharpened into a perfect edge.

Tsukiji Masamoto is one of Japan’s premier knife makers. Founded in 1845, they began producing cutlery in workshops located outside Tokyo. Today, the 7th-generation owner, Misao Hirano, runs his venerable business from within the city’s famed Tsukiji wholesale fish market, where he sells his knives to customers. Over 80% of them are professional cooks, chefs or butchers. 

 

Next on the agenda was ascending to the top of the world’s tallest tower, the Tokyo Skytree.  The 2,080-foot-high Tokyo Skytree is a broadcasting and observation tower.  There are two observation decks. We visited both, and they offer a bird’s eye view of the density and expanse of one of the most exciting cities in the world.

 

The Harajuku District is home to the Meiji Jingu Shinto Shrine. Meiji Jingu Shrine is a must-visit attraction in Tokyo. This serene shrine is dedicated to Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken, and it offers a peaceful escape from the bustling city. The shrine is surrounded by a lush forest, creating a tranquil atmosphere that is perfect for relaxation and contemplation.

 

Entry into the shrine grounds is marked by a massive torii gate, after which the sights and sounds of the busy city are replaced by a tranquil forest. The approximately 100,000 trees that make up Meiji Jingu’s forest were planted during the shrine’s construction and were donated from regions across the entire country. Along the walkway to the shrine is a magnificent wall of sake barrels, representing the various prefectures (states) of Japan.

 

At the middle of the forest, Meiji Jingu’s buildings also have an air of tranquility distinct from the surrounding city. Visitors can take part in typical Shinto activities, such as making offerings at the main hall, buying charms and amulets or writing out one’s wish on an ema, which are small wooden plaques, common to Japan, on which Shinto and Buddhist worshippers write prayers or wishes.

Not far from the shrine is the famous Takeshita Dori Street, an alley lined with fast food outlets, crepe stands, and fashion boutiques.  A juxtaposition to the peaceful tranquility of the shrine, this popular street in Harajuku is known for wacky, youth-driven shops selling colorful and crazy clothes and accessories and is filled with bustling crowds of tourists co-mingling with locals.  We completed our visit to the Harajuku area with a brisk stroll down Omotesando, a fancy avenue lined with zelkova trees and luxury shops located in Shibuya and Minato, stretching from the Meiji Shrine entrance to Aoyama-dori, where Omotesando Station can be found, enabling us to descend to the subway, making a quick getaway to Shibuya. 

 

Shibuya is famous for the Shibuya Crossing and Hachiko Statue.  Shibuya Scramble Crossing, commonly known as Shibuya Crossing, is a popular pedestrian scramble crossing in Tokyo. It is located in front of the Shibuya Station Hachiko exit and stops vehicles in all directions to allow pedestrians to inundate the entire intersection. Shibuya Crossing is the world’s busiest pedestrian crossing, with as many as 3,000 people crossing at a time. To get the best view, my guide took me to Magnet by Shibuya 109 (LOUNGE MAG8) a rooftop lounge where admission of 1,500 yen (about 10 bucks) includes a drink and you can take photos and videos of the famous crossing from above, making the pedestrians look like marching ants.

 

After marveling at the pedestrian crossing and actually making our own way through the intersection a few times, we stopped at the famous Hachiko Statue, which can be found just outside of Shibuya Station. The Hachiko Statue is iconic for its unique story and has become a popular meeting place for friends.

 

The story of Hachiko began in the 1920’s when he was adopted by Hidesaburo Ueno, a professor at Tokyo University. Every morning, Hachiko accompanied his owner to the Shibuya train station and faithfully awaited his return in the evening. This routine continued until one tragic day in 1925 when Professor Ueno unexpectedly passed away, leaving Hachiko waiting in vain. 

 

Despite his owner’s absence, Hachiko returned to the station day after day, faithfully awaiting the return of his beloved companion for nearly a decade. For this reason, Hachiko has become a symbol of loyalty, friendship and devotion. The story of Hachiko has been become well known in Japan and beyond and was even adapted into a movie starring Richard Gere.

 

We trekked through the Ginza shopping district which boasts all the luxury design houses.  I could have spent a week in Tokyo just shopping.  Fortunately for my budget, I didn’t have that much time. We did pop into a couple of my favorites, Cartier and Gucci as well as a luxury resale store called BrandOff that offers gently used merchandise at discounts.  Finally, my guide took me to the train station and helped me catch the train back to the Toyosu district, the location of teamLab Planets.

 

I had read about teamLab on a couple of the Facebook groups I belong to that offer tips about traveling to Japan.  I didn’t think I would have time to experience it for myself because my schedule was already jam-packed. Also, the tickets sell out in advance due to high demand.  However, when I did a google search that morning, I discovered the exhibit was open until 10:00 p.m. and there were evening slots available.

 

teamLab Planets is a museum where you walk through water and a garden where you become one with the flowers. It comprises four large-scale artwork spaces and two gardens created by art collective teamLab. People go barefoot and immerse their entire bodies in the vast artworks together with others. The artworks change under the presence of people, blurring the perception of boundaries between the self and the works. Other people also create change in the artworks, blurring the boundaries between themselves and the works, and creating a continuity between the self, the art, and others. It was like an adult fun house. Only in Tokyo!  I am grateful to have had the chance to experience teamLab Planets and highly recommend it.

 

After breakfast on our final morning of the group tour, I skipped our sushi making activity in order to visit the Imperial Palace.  Tucked away behind moats and thick stone walls, the residence and offices of the Emperor of Japan occupy an enviable spot in central Tokyo. The buildings are off limits to tours because it is a working palace, however, guided tours of the grounds are offered daily (except Monday and Friday).  You queue up as early as 8:00 a.m. About 9:00 a.m. the staff come around and hand out forms that require completion, and you must have your passport with you.  Next, about 9:30 a.m., they allow you onto the palace grounds and funnel you into a multi-purpose room where they play an informational video (in Japanese) on a loop.  Then tour guides make announcements in various languages, including Japanese, English, Spanish and Mandarin.  Then you are divided into your various groups based upon language preference.  The guide walks you around the palace grounds for about an hour giving you a history lesson. From start to finish, it takes about three hours. A faster alternative, the East Gardens are also free and open to the public without the formalities.

 

I rejoined my tour group at Asakusa. Asakusa is the center of Tokyo’s Shitamachi District (literally “low city”), where an atmosphere of the Tokyo of past decades survives.

Asakusa’s main attraction is Sensoji, a very popular Buddhist temple, built in the 7th century. The temple is approached via the Nakamise, a shopping street that has been providing temple visitors with a variety of traditional, local snacks and tourist souvenirs for centuries. I was able to purchase some last-minute omiyage, including kimonos for my two Yorkies, LuLu and Spike. 

I couldn’t resist a 30-minute Japanese foot massage, during which the therapist massages the feet, focusing on areas of tension in the muscles and tendons. The massage combines pressure, friction and kneading with stretching and mobilization. Beginning with a foot bath, the massage is specific to the feet but also includes the lower legs to relax the surrounding muscles.

The foot massage also provided a respite from the overwhelming crowds and provided me with the energy boost necessary to make the final tour stop at Ueno Park, where I disembarked the bus and indulged in the last of my egg salad sandwich addiction. While the rest of the group went off with our local guide, Yuki to purchase dried fish at Ameyoko, I opted instead to walk quickly through the Ueno Zoological Park, Japan’s oldest zoo.  The big celebrities at Ueno Zoo are the giant pandas. The zoo has had pandas since the first pair were donated in 1972 as a gesture of friendship from China to Japan. The current pair of pandas are a male called Ri Ri, and a female called Shin Shin, which arrived at the zoo in 2011.

If you think the experience of Japan is over once you get to the airport for departure, think again.  The Haneda Airport is buzzing with restaurants and shops. There are tourists lined up for the Royce chocolates (they melt in your mouth) and Tokyo Banana (sponge cakes with different flavored fillings) at Duty Free. Most of the high-end luxury goods brands are also represented with individual boutiques, including Bulgari, Chanel, Cartier, Hermes, Gucci, Louis Vuitton and many others. These items are significantly less than in the US thanks to the weak yen and duty free. I saved almost 30% off US retail prices. My philosophy has always been, “It’s not how much you spend, it’s how much you save!”

While waiting for the flight back to Honolulu to depart, I sat in exhaustion thinking about how fortunate I was to have experienced just about everything I had on my list.  Not only was the group tour itinerary ambitious to begin with but I also added some extras thus making it a completely jam-packed journey through Japan.  I achieved the three things I wanted most to see:  cherry blossoms, snow monkeys and Mt. Fuji.  The deer in Nara were a bonus and riding the bullet train was exciting!

 

They say life is like the cherry blossoms, beautiful, short and fleeting. It’s vital to make every effort to fulfill your dreams of traveling and experience the wonders of the world because, while the days may pass slowly, the years go by quickly.

 

2 thoughts on “Jam-Packed Japan

  1. As always the travelogue is amazing. You have captured the excitement, the beauty and the culture in such breathtaking detail. I always look forward to your travels – your talent as a writer is noteworthy. Besf Pat Nowak

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