Hot Springs

When I told my Board at Responsive Caregivers of Hawai’i, where I serve as the President & CEO, that I’d be taking off five weeks to travel on the mainland in the spring, they were encouraging of me using some of the vacation time I’d accumulated after a year of riding the corona coaster. Our nonprofit organization, which offers programming for adults with developmental disabilities, has not only survived the public health emergency but is emerging as a leader among service providers and becoming an agency of choice among participants and their families.

 

After shuttering our adult day health program from March to November of last year, we were happy to obtain approval to reopen with limitations on the numbers of persons and with the proper safety measures in place.  With the introduction of vaccines and an adequate cash flow, I felt comfortable taking the time off.  The reliance on remote work has continued to prove beneficial and I can keep up with some of my tasks while on the road.

 

The journey started when my partner, Sam Yoder, left Honolulu on April 1st to pick up a new luxury motor coach in California, which he drove to Dallas. His mom, Geri (aka “Mama G”) and I flew to Dallas two weeks later and enjoyed some time with family there before making our way to see relatives in the Shreveport/Bossier City area of Louisiana. We also visited one of my favorite places, New Orleans for a few days.

 

After some setbacks, including the hospitalization of our beloved Mama G for a few days due to complications from congestive heart failure, we finally got medical clearance after purchasing an oxygen condenser and boarded the beautiful Prevost Millenium with our provisions and our two Yorkies, LuLu and Spike, in tow. Our journey toward our home state of Ohio was planned to allow for stops along the way in five states that I haven’t yet visited, including Arkansas, Oklahoma, Nebraska, Kansas and Iowa. Sam also needed to visit Oklahoma to check off all 50 states.  

 

Our first stop was Hot Springs, Arkansas which one of my Board members had recommended. Hot Springs is a city in the Ouachita Mountains of Arkansas. It’s known for naturally heated springs, many of them in Hot Springs National Park, where we parked the RV at Gulpha Gorge Campground, which offers picturesque camping spots along the river bank, with full hook-ups for only $30 per night. We got a half off discount for senior citizens. Not a bad deal considering the water and electrical hook-ups enable full use all of the luxuries on board the coach, including the full size marble shower.

I’m not much for camping but this form of travel is considered glamping. Indeed, my friend Laura in New Orleans calls the Prevost a “Ritz on Wheels.” We have a king size bed, comfortable living room furniture, dinette, full size refrigerator/freezer, washer/dryer, and even a Starbucks machine to make iced lattes on board the Prevost, which is the ultra luxury brand for tour buses. Indeed, many people stop to stare and wonder who’s inside. Little do they know, there’s two lucky dogs on the bus curled up in their bed thinking that all dogs live this way.

 

After resting for the night and having some breakfast sandwiches with guava jam we brought with us from Hawai’i, we got ready and headed into town.  The resort town of Hot Springs is a hybrid of sorts.  One side of the Main Street includes hotels, boutique shops and restaurants, while the other side belongs to the National park with its medicinal waters, miles of hiking trails and the historic Bathhouse Row.

 

In 1832, 40 years before the creation of Yellowstone National Park, Congress established Hot Springs Reservation to protect hot springs flowing from Hot Springs Mountain. In 1921, Hot Springs became the 18th national park in the National Park Service. Today the park encompasses 5,500 acres and protects eight historic bathhouses with the former luxurious Fordyce Bathhouse housing the park’s visitor center. The entire Bathhouse Row area is a National Historic Landmark District that contains the grandest collection of bathhouses of its kind in North America.

We visited Quapaw Baths & Spa, the perfect place to immerse in Hot Springs’ acclaimed thermal waters.  The Quapaw was built in a Spanish Colonial Revival style and sits on the site of two previous bathhouses, the Horseshoe and Magnesia. It was established in 1922 and named after a Native American tribe that once held land in the area.

 

For centuries, Native Americans, early European explorers, and visitors from around the world have come to the mineral-rich natural hot springs to bathe in the healing waters.  Early explorers gave the first detailed account of bathing in the hot springs, “We found at the Hot Springs an Open Log-Cabin and a few huts of split boards, all calculated for summer encampment, and which have been erected by persons resorting to the Springs for the recovery of their health.”

 

Our bathhouse experience was more modern than that witnessed by explorers and offered amenities such as cold peppermint towels.  There are various spa services, including a variety of massage therapies as well as facials that can be added.  You can join others in the public baths or have private individual or couples bathing experiences.  There’s also a café offering refreshments.

 

The entire time we were there I couldn’t get the lyrics to the old Barbara Mandrell song, “Fast Lanes and Country Roads” out of my head: “Down in Hot Springs Arkansas, you can get an overhaul. I sure could use one.”

 

This seemed fitting as Mama G is on a path to restore her own health.  Even though she didn’t join us in the thermal baths, she was able to walk around the visitor center without having to use oxygen and thankfully her health continues to improve.

On our way out of town, we drove by the Bill Clinton Boyhood Home. Also known as the Birnbaum-Shubetz House, it is a historic house at 1011 Park Avenue. Built about 1896 and redesigned in the Tudor Revival in 1938, it was the home of President Clinton between 1954 and 1961, teenage years in which he first determined to enter politics. In addition to this national historic significance, it is locally notable as an example of Tudor Revival architecture. The house, which was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1995, is a private residence and is not open to the public.

We marveled at the lakes and hills with lush green trees and yellow fields with resting cows as we made our way across Arkansas and into Oklahoma on our way to our next destination, Broken Bow, OK.  

Broken Bow

 

On a recent episode of “The Real Housewives of Dallas,” the ladies took a weekend road trip in a small RV to Broken Bow, Oklahoma, where they rented a luxurious cabin in the lush forest. As a devoted Bravo-holic, I nearly shrieked with delight when I saw the same sign for “Hochatown” as recently featured on the television series.

Hochatown is a community in McCurtain County, Oklahoma, the second to hold the name after the first was flooded by the damming of the Moutnain Fork Riverto to create Broken Bow Lake. The city lies within the Little Dixie region of Oklahoma, an area originally settled largely by Southerners seeking a new start following the Civil War.

 

The land that would become Hochatown was owned by the Choctaw tribe, with twelve families moving into the area in the 1880s. Like Broken Bow, Hochatown grew around the Choctaw Lumber and Coal Company, (later named Dierks) gaining a post office in 1894 and becoming a bustling town by 1900. The lumber company built a railroad spur between Hochatown and the community of Eagle town, Oklahoma to facilitate the export of logs.

 

Hochatown State Park wraps around the shore of crystal clear Broken Bow Lake. Hochatown State Park was once an independent Oklahoma state park in far southeastern Oklahoma, north of the city of Broken Bow. It was combined into Beavers Bend State Park in 2017.

Broken Bow is a small city in southeastern Oklahoma that serves as a gateway to Beavers Bend State Park, home to black bears, bald eagles and pine forest trails. The park’s Forest Heritage Center Museum explores the role of forestry in local life. Broken Bow Lake has islands, beaches, boat ramps and fish such as largemouth bass. East of town, the 1884 Gardner Mansion & Museum features Native American and pioneer artifacts.

It’s easily understandable why Stephanie from “The Real Housewives of Dallas” decided to organize a fun trip to Oklahoma for her fellow housewives and the housewife added some very interesting activities to the itinerary such as going on a quest to find the legendary Bigfoot. She roped in a local Oklahoma resident, Charles Benton, who made headlines with his claims of having seen Bigfoot. When Charles came down to meet the ladies and told them about his experience of sighting Bigfoot, he shared his knowledge about the beast with the housewives.

 

Broken Bow city in Oklahoma has become a major tourist attraction thanks to rumors of the presence of Bigfoot in the area. For several decades generations of people grew up in Oklahoma hearing stories of Bigfoot and the terror that the beast is capable of causing. Charles made headlines a few years ago when he claimed that he spotted Bigfoot. 

He explained to the ladies how a few years ago while hunting for turkeys during sunset he came face to face with the dreaded beast. “Behind me I could hear this moaning, this grunting. And I could feel it almost,” Charles explained. In an interview with State Impact Oklahoma, he described the experience, “I was on my all fours there for a minute. When I got back to my knees and was getting up — see the trees that make kind of a ‘V’? Right there. In between those two trees, down there in that creek.” He says the creature turned and looked right at him. “I ran up this hill, ran past my blind, my tent and all my camping stuff. Ran to my truck and never came back,” Charles claims. 

 

While we didn’t experience the thrill of a Bigfoot sighting or bump into any housewives, we did manage to take in some of the natural beauty of the region. We traveled one of the best drives to enjoy in Broken Bow, within Beavers Bend State Park. Talimena National Scenic Byway (295A) has some of the most panoramic scenes of the Ouachita Mountain range. It goes on for a route of 56 miles and has some breathtaking backdrops. Do try to take in this drive within Beaver if you want be be impressed.

 

Friends and family in Louisiana and Texas had recommended that we include Broken Bow in our itinerary for our road trip north. Our friend Nannette said to be sure to try the Blue Rooster Restaurant in Hoachatown for “down home cooking all made from scratch.” Unfortunately, the restaurant was closed so we didn’t get to sample the fare, but do keep it in mind if you make the journey to Broken Bow/Hochatown.

 

Broken Bow is the water paradise of Oklahoma. The destination being set in the backdrop of the heavenly Ouachita Mountains draws many tourists to its heart. Broken Bow can be one of the best places to check out for a weekend destination offering a variety of outdoor activities, including fishing, boating, hiking, camping and horseback riding.  There’s also many restaurants, wineries and casinos to round out the experience. Just watch out for Bigfoot!

Luxurious, Laid-Back Lana’i

The Hawaiian islands are a highlight on virtually everyone’s bucket list, offering breathtaking mountain hikes, pristine white sand beaches, world class surfing, award-winning dining, luxury shopping, and five-star resorts featuring pro golf courses, all presented with the beauty and warmth of the aloha spirit. We are lucky to call Oahu home, where we’ve been adhering to strict stay-at-home orders for the past four months.

With 28,000 travelers reportedly pouring into Hawai’i every day during the months of January and February earlier this year, including 20 percent of them from Asia, the state seemed fertile ground for a major COVID-19 outbreak. That was especially true on Oahu, according to an online POLITICO article, where at least one-third of the state’s visitors cram into the hotels, stores, restaurants and beaches that line Waikiki’s two miles. Even without tourists, Oahu, where the bulk of the state’s population lives, is jam-packed—significantly more so than New Jersey, the nation’s most densely populated state. 

We seemed to be living in a petri dish on Oahu so most of us hunkered down in fear. But a catastrophe never came. Instead of a massive, uncontrolled outbreak, Hawai’i has experienced the lowest infection and mortality rates in the country. 

At the onset of the coronavirus pandemic, on March 26, Hawai’i Governor David Ige instituted a mandatory 14-day quarantine for incoming and inter-island travelers, including all visitors and residents. In addition to risking the health of yourself and others, ignoring the quarantine requirement can subject you to arrest and fines of up to $5,000. There have been multiple arrests of both visitors and residents who have violated the quarantine. 

As part of the screening process, upon arriving in Hawai’i, everyone must complete state government forms and provide an address where they will quarantine. Follow-up calls are made to ensure compliance.

If you don’t have a place to stay or if you violate quarantine, my friend, Jessica Lani-Rich will provide you with a return ticket home courtesy of the Visitor Aloha Society of Hawaii (VASH). Jessica is the CEO of VASH and has recently been featured in Pacific Business News and Time magazine proclaiming that “safety in tourism is a top priority.” Over 150 visitors have been sent home. For example, she recently had to send over 20 members of a cult back to the mainland.

Jessica and I are both members of the Rotary Club of Honolulu, and VASH was founded by the Rotary Club of Honolulu in 1997. Jessica was the featured speaker during one of our recent weekly club meetings, which now take place via Zoom. She talked about the quarantine violators and how VASH is managing during the pandemic, “Hawai’i has the lowest COVID-19 cases in the nation, and I’m glad to be part of a team of dedicated people who are playing an important role in keeping Hawai’i safe.” Jessica explained that in addition to safety, “it’s all to help preserve the tourism industry for the future.” 

As an additional layer of protection beyond the travel restrictions, Hawai’i also enforced strict stay-at-home orders for residents that only recently have begun to slowly lift, resulting in an anticipated but manageable uptick in positive cases. Hawaii’s exemplary COVID-19 response has largely been influenced by Josh Green, the Lieutenant Governor and a practicing emergency room doctor, whose encouraging video updates on the daily infection and recovery rates fill local residents’ social media feeds. He encourages us to diligently wash our hands, wear our masks and practice social distancing. Although they sometimes seemed at odds during the early, roller coaster days of the pandemic, the Governor usually heeded the Lieutenant Governor’s medical expertise. 

In Hawai’i, the state also relied on the spirit of aloha to flatten the curve. “Maybe it’s because we’re on an island, but people here understand that what we do impacts our neighbors and friends,” Gov. Ige said. “People took the mandates to stay at home and self-isolate seriously, and they encouraged each other to implement it.”

But the success hasn’t come without a price. According to the Wall Street Journal, Hawaii’s workforce has sought unemployment benefits at the highest rate in the nation since mid-March, reflecting how hard the coronavirus pandemic has hit the state’s vital tourism industry.

The state’s $18 billion tourism industry ground to a near-halt in March, after the federal administration recommended Americans avoid unnecessary travel and bars and restaurant dining rooms closed.  The scale of the job losses highlights how important tourism is to the state’s economy. More than 10 million people traveled to Hawai’i last year, generating $2 billion in state tax revenue, according to the state tourism authority. Leisure and hospitality, including food service, account for 19% of all employment on the islands.

Trying to balance the importance of reopening tourism to re-start the economy while keeping both visitors and residents safe, especially our vulnerable kupuna (elders), is a complicated process. The first phase involved lifting the mandatory quarantine for inter-island travel on June 16. 

A second step was slated to begin August 1, allowing all trans-Pacific travelers arriving in Hawai’i from out-of-state to have the option of getting a valid COVID-19 test prior to their arrival, and showing proof of a negative test result, to avoid the 14-day quarantine. Evidence of a negative test result would be required upon arrival in Hawai’i.

The plan was considered by many to be a lifeline to Hawaii’s flat-lining visitor industry and would require travelers to get tested before they arrive in the islands. But the plan hit a number of roadblocks after being announced, including a surge in infections on the mainland and a subsequent shortage of tests in some areas.

Gov. Ige thus extended the 14-day mandatory quarantine for all trans-Pacific travelers through the end of August as the state continues to hammer out the details of how the testing program would work ― and ensure that visitors don’t slip through the cracks.

The period of time between the June 16 lifting of the mandatory quarantine for local inter-island travel and the pre-testing program for out-of-state visitors presented us with an unprecedented window of opportunity for a relatively safe staycation devoid of the usual abundance of tourists. 

The exciting invitation proclaimed, “We are pleased to announce the reopening of Four Seasons Resort Lana’i! Kama’Aina (Hawai’i residents) are invited to hop over to the island paradise starting July 1, 2020. Welcoming guests through our doors is at the heart of what we do. And now, we are ready to welcome you once again.” 

The enticing Four Seasons Resort Lana’i has been on my bucket list for the last few years that I’ve been watching the jaw-dropping footage of the breathtaking property from our living room on the Scenic Hawai’i television station. Currently, they are offering Kama’Aina (local discounted) room rates of 20 percent off bookings, as well as 15 percent off spa services.  Golfers can enjoy a round on the Jack Nicklaus-designed Manele Golf Course for $275 per player for 18 holes and, through July 31, 2020, guests receive 20 percent off island activities including all ocean activities except private charters, sporting clays and archery at the Lana’i Archery and Shooting Range, and horseback riding at Lana’i Ranch. 

Beyond August 31, there are special offers that extend to out-of-state travelers as well, and all guests booking a stay by August 31, 2020 for travel arriving by January 4, 2021 will also enjoy round-trip luxury private flights on Lana’i Air from Honolulu to Lana’i City with a reservation of any room or suite in addition to airport transfers and intra-island transportation.

Kama’Aina rates can be booked only by phone 800 321 4666 or email res.lanai@fourseasons.com and other offerings can be booked online https://www.fourseasons.com/lanai/

We took advantage of the “Stay Longer” promotion, offering a complimentary fifth night with every four consecutive paid nights as well as the round-trip private air included.

Travelers on Lana’i Air depart from a private hangar at the Daniel K. Inouye International Airport in Honolulu. The opportunity to avoid having to traverse the airports was an important factor in deciding if the temptation of the getaway was worth the risk. 

My travel companion is my partner’s Mom, Geri Yoder “Mama G.” Her age and underlying health conditions have kept her quarantined safely at home for four months in Mililani Town on Oahu, but she was ready to fly the coop! Given her vulnerability, we gave several factors serious consideration before committing to the trip. Not being exposed to the travelers inside the airport made us feel safer. We knew there would be no out-of-state travelers at the resort during our stay. Additionally, there have been zero cases of COVID-19 on Lana’i. 

Finally, as one can imagine, guest and employee health and safety remain a top priority as the resort resumes operations. Along with closely monitoring and adhering to federal, state, and local government mandates, the resort is implementing Lead With Care, the new Four Seasons global standard of hotel cleanliness and safety protocols.

“Along with already-commonplace measures such as more sanitizers, masks and heightened cleaning and hygiene, our Lead With Care program will enhance our tools and training to deliver an experience grounded in safety and trust,” Christian Clerc, president of global operations at Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts, said in a statement. “While the Four Seasons experience may look different in this new environment, it will ultimately feel the same — our dedicated people will continue to deliver the same intuitive service and personalized care for which Four Seasons is known and trusted the world over.”

According to Travel Weekly, the new Lead With Care protocols include: a hygiene officer for each property to monitor implementation of the new standards; daily disinfection of guestrooms with blacklight inspection; hourly cleaning of public areas, including high-touch surfaces; guestrooms equipped with kits stocked with masks, hand sanitizer and sanitizing wipes; limited capacity or altered layouts for social distancing at restaurants and bars; a contactless delivery option for in-room dining; employee training on the new procedures, COVID-19 transmission, proper use of PPE, and appropriate social distancing, as well as behavioral training geared at providing customer service in the new environment.

NanoSeptic Self-Cleaning surfaces, including elevator buttons and other high touch areas, were a new and reassuring mitigation effort that I observed during our stay. A cleaning system based on technology, not toxins, NanoSeptic skins and mats turn dirty, high traffic public touch points into continuously self-cleaning surfaces. I had never seen them before. We also received welcome gift bags in our room with hand sanitizer and face masks designed by Hawaiian clothier Reyn Spooner, known for classic aloha shirts. A nice touch for the “new normal.”

On the highly anticipated day of our departure, we anxiously put on our brave faces (underneath our masks of course) and our neighbor, Aunty June, delivered us directly to the private Lana’i Air lounge where we were escorted to the tarmac like the Kardashians and boarded with our two Yorkies, LuLu and Spike, otherwise known as High and Maintenance, in tow.

Lana’i Air offers luxurious daily flights between Lana’i City and Daniel K. Inouye International Airport on Oahu. Lana’i Air is an ultra-lux and convenient way to begin your island adventure. We experienced the comfort and quality of Lana’i Air’s Pilatus PC-12, a legendary Swiss turboprop with an outstanding safety record proven over six million flight hours. For added safety, two pilots operate each Lana’i Air flight. The elegant yet reliable aircraft is large enough to seat a party of six comfortably. Lana’i Air offers a seamless and exceptional travel experience that begins the moment you board your plane.

From the moment you enter the cabin, it is apparent the PC-12 is truly in a class of its own. BMW Designworks crafted the PC-12’s modern, elegant interior. The executive seats are stately and engineered for comfort. You will appreciate the old-world craftsmanship and attention to detail presented in the form of custom leather work, rare-wood cabinetry and elegant upholstery. The aircraft has been individually and exquisitely crafted to make your Lana’i flying experience extraordinary. 

Upon your arrival at the Daniel K. Inouye Airport in Honolulu, Four Seasons guests are escorted from a private hangar with direct tarmac access to your Lana’i Air plane. The VIP waiting lounge was modern and clean and we were offered refreshments. When you arrive on Lana’i, luxury ground transportation is included for Four Seasons guests from the airport to the resort.

Mama G was nervous to fly in a single engine plane but this eagle was state of the art and it looked damn spectacular parked on the tarmac glimmering in the sunlight with a red carpet leading to the stairs. Justin, our hunky pilot with long hair and biceps popping out of his uniform, was standing outside the aircraft, and he helped ease her nerves. Once Mama G got a look at Justin, her flying anxiety vanished. Indeed, everyone that sees our photo with Justin comments on how “hot” the pilot is. Have a look for yourself. Don’t get your hopes up, though, Justin is married and he wasn’t on our return flight because he was celebrating his anniversary.

It was a beautiful day to fly with bright blue skies and a few cotton candy clouds. Departing Oahu, the waters off Waikiki and Hanauma Bay were an electric neon turquoise due to the lack of pollution from tourists. Justin offered to fly us over the resort to have a bird’s eye view before landing, which was a special treat. 

The resort is an oasis that requires a 30-minute long drive on a two-lane road that begins with a straight, long stretch lined meticulously on both sides with stately pine trees. The road almost looks like something out of a children’s storybook that looks and feels more like England or France than Hawai’i. Spotting axis deer and wild turkey along the way only adds to the enchantment. The pine trees are a signature of Lana’i and have an interesting history and purpose. The first thing you need to know is Lana’i is a rather dry island. It has the least amount of rainfall of all the Hawaiian islands because the mountains on Molokai and Maui capture most of the rainfall which comes its way.

The first pine tree on the island was a Norfolk Pine, which was planted in 1878. In 1911, manager of the ranch on Lana’i, George C. Munro, noticed that water was dripping from the pine tree onto a tin roof. George figured that the pine tree was taking water out of the fog and condensing it. He figured that if they planted more pine trees, it could bring much needed water to the island and make use of the heavy fog, which would often collect near the high points on the island.

Instead of receiving Norfolk Pines, they got Cook Island Pines by mistake. Today you can see Cook Island pines all over Lana’i City and on the highest ridge on the island, Lanaihale. It is estimated that each tree creates 200 gallons of fresh water for the island each day, all of which is taken right out of thin air.

Lana’i was once known for cultivating approximately 75 percent of the world’s pineapples following James Dole’s purchase of the island in 1922 for $1.1 million. At one time it supported nearly 20,000 acres of cultivated pineapple, making Lana’i the world’s largest plantation and earning the name, “Pineapple Island.” In order to accommodate these workers, Dole built a plantation camp in the flatlands, now Lana’i City, where most of the the island’s tiny population 3,000 live.

The late 1980’s saw a shift away from agriculture and the island began its next chapter with development as a tourist destination, and closure of the plantation. Larry Ellison, the Oracle Corp. founder who now owns 98% of Lana’i, is moving forward with a broad plan to diversify the economy on the island where luxury tourism reigns. A core piece of this vision calls for adding 546 acres to triple the size of Lana’i City to accommodate more affordable housing, a university campus, film studios and a tennis academy in the island’s center, where residents and businesses are concentrated. 

Ellison is the sixth richest man in the world according to Forbes.  His life story is interesting and worth a quick google.  The locals say he is kind and nice.  He made sure all resort employees were paid during the mandatory stay-at-home orders. 

Ellison’s first huge investment was the $75 million renovation of the former Manele Bay Hotel, which reopened as the Four Seasons Resort Lana’i in 2016. The billionaire also spent an additional $75 million to convert the other luxury hotel on the island, the Lodge at Koele in Lana’i City, into a wellness retreat that is also managed by Four Seasons. Called Sensei Lana’i, it opened late last year and it’s absolutely jaw-dropping gorgeous—inside and out. 

Since we are both Pisces who crave water views, we opted for the beach resort instead of the wellness retreat. Besides, who wants to do sunrise yoga when you can sleep in and order room service?

On the southeastern coast of the pristine island of Lana’i, the five-diamond Four Seasons Resort Lana’i at Manele Bay sits just a moment away from many of the most scenic spots, best reached by foot or 4-by-4, and where the Hawai’i found in vintage postcards comes vibrantly to life.

The contemporary décor of the beachside resort reflects the tones and textures of Lana’i and adds a Hawaiian aesthetic, featuring rich colors from the earth, sand and brush as well as thoughtfully curated artwork from across Polynesia, Micronesia and Hawai’i. A total of 213 rooms and suites spread over four stories overlook the protected marine preserve of Hulupoe Bay and neighboring islands Maui, Molokai and Kahoolawe.

Inspired by Hawaii’s diverse and storied Polynesian influences, the décor for the cliffside resort above the beach showcases bespoke furnishings and artwork, rich materials and contemporary amenities such as intuitive lighting, temperature, service, and privacy controls and a 75″ platinum bezel LED television panel for unparalleled in-room entertainment. The room had so many bells and whistles it was not easy to learn how to operate everything. A tutorial on how to use all of the gizmos and gadgets would have been helpful. The Toto washlet in the water closet was a nice touch, no doubt inspired by many Asian tourists who visit the property. Toto washlets are common throughout Asian countries. After a trip there a few years ago, I had one installed in my condo in Ohio before moving to the Aloha State.

The automatic black out shades were perfect for sleeping in late in the feather beds, which LuLu and Spike would burrow into and snuggle for hours. The hotel staff even had a pet welcoming package with dog bowls and dog beds with their names spelled out in sponge letters that doubled as toys as they flung them around the room. Every time we returned after housekeeping had been there, all of the letters were perfectly returned to their beds, spelling out their names, only to be quickly and delightfully destroyed.

On the southeastern shores of Hawaii’s last unspoiled island, Four Seasons Resort Lana’i is your gateway to an exotic, private paradise where opportunities for adventure and relaxation abound. By land, sea and sky, Lanai’s riches are all yours to discover. 

Frequent shuttles are offered to Lana’i City to explore the charming plantation town as well as access to hiking, horseback riding, archery, clay shooting and more in the green uplands of the island. In addition to activities and tours to explore and satiate the adventurous spirit, there are also a plethora of dining and refreshment offerings throughout the property. Following is a list of tempting options, all of which we thoroughly enjoyed. 

NOBU LANAI

Take a seat at the intimate sushi bar for a hand-selected meal of fresh-caught fish, share a one-of-a-kind dining experience at our private teppan table, or join friends and family on the cliff-side terrace. At any spot, you’ll savor the innovative Japanese cuisine of world-renowned Chef Nobu Matsuhisa, next to sweeping views of the Pacific Ocean. Our personal favorites included tempura shrimp sushi rolls, signature black cod in lettuce cups, and Alaskan King Crab tempura in a sweet and sour ponzu sauce with jalapeños and cilantro. For dessert, we devoured the chocolate soufflé bento box and the Japanese cheesecake with fresh mangoes. 

MALIBU FARM

Perched above Hulopoe Bay, this poolside restaurant specializes in fresh, organic and flavorful, locally sourced food, with most of the fruits and vegetables coming directly from their Malibu Farm Harvest Garden. We had lunch delivered from Malibu Farm to our beach setup where we enjoyed fish tacos on our lounge chairs shaded by umbrellas while being hypnotized by the sight and sound of the surf. 

ONE FORTY STEAKHOUSE

This was our favorite. If you’re looking for a hearty meal, ONE FORTY’s menu is filled with cuts of prime and Wagyu beef, as well as seasonal Hawaiian fish grilled to perfection, all complemented by traditional side dishes and an extensive wine list. The Maui Waipoli butter lettuce salad with dried mango, macadamia nuts, pears, and blue cheese crumbles was to die for. The melt-in-your-mouth filets are cooked to perfection and served on a butcher’s block with your choice of sauces. I chose tarragon Bearnaise and Mama G had the ONE FORTY signature steak sauce. Lobster mashed potatoes and the most perfectly grilled asparagus were our sides to share. We refused to share dessert, though, so I ordered chocolate soufflé and she had the macadamia nut sphere and pecan and dulce de leche tart with Guanaja dark chocolate sorbet. Her dessert was a work of art that the waiter topped off with freshly poured hot caramel fudge table side. 

THE BREAK

This open-air hangout is a combo of restaurant, bar, bakery and coffee shop, offering Hawaiian coffee and light breakfast items, salads, sandwiches and house-made gelato. As the day winds down, gather for sharing plates, local beer, wine and craft cocktails or end the evening with nightcaps and dessert. Guests can enjoy pool and other table games, relax with sports programs, or simply enjoy the view. I visited The Break in the mornings and afternoons for iced lattes with almond milk. They also have scrumptious fruit danish and chocolate croissant. Their peanut butter açaí bowl was ono (delicious). We even enjoyed a casual but delectable take out dinner from there on our final evening. We wanted to eat on our lanai and take advantage of the view. We enjoyed watching the setting sun change the white sand beach to a beautiful golden color before the twinkling stars came out to give us a light show. We shared Dakine salad (kale, shaved cabbage, carrots, quinoa, toasted pecans, mango, and avocado with lilikoi dressing) and Kauai shrimp fried rice with Portuguese sausage, Hawaiian peppers and scallions. For dessert we couldn’t say no to the lilikoi (passion fruit) cheesecake and the seven layer chocolate cake. We even made ourselves espresso and cappuccino in the room to accompany our sweets.

VIEWS

The perfect spot for a post-golf lunch, Manele Golf Course’s aptly named restaurant offers 180-degree views of the Pacific Ocean and a delicious selection of salads, appetizers and wraps. Or skip the round altogether and relax over cocktails with one of the house-made, ice-cream sandwiches. Mama G has the oatmeal cookie with mango sorbet and I devoured a chocolate cookie with Kona coffee ice cream.  We went there twice because the name says it all—the views are to die for! You feel as if you’ve ascended into heaven looking out over the turquoise waters with views of Maui and Kahoolawe behind Sweetheart Rock. And you can literally order a cheeseburger in paradise.  The French fries are hot and crispy.  Mama G had a BLT on one visit and Kalbi beef short ribs served in lettuce cups with local garnishes the second time.

Earlier this year, the Four Seasons Lana’i was named the No. 1 Best Hotel in the USA by U.S. News & World Report, the global authority in rankings and consumer advice. The 10th annual Best Hotels rankings evaluated more than 30,000 luxury properties across 400-plus destinations in the United States, Europe, Bermuda, Mexico, Canada and the Caribbean.

Four Seasons Resort Lana’i received the the No. 1 ranking “because it impresses both experts and travelers with its countless amenities, ranging from sunset yoga to a world-class golf course, and encourages guests to explore the property’s idyllic setting.”

From our panoramic ocean front room, we could gaze across Hulopoe Bay and see the top of Puu Pehe, or Sweetheart Rock, a gorgeous spectacle, and the stuff that legends are made from, literally.

The folklore is a tale of two lovers, Pehe, a Hawaiian maiden from Lahaina and Makakehau, a young warrior from Lana’i who fell in love. Makakehau brought Pehe to Lana’i and hid her in the sea caves under Manele’s cliffs, only to discover one day that the sea had claimed her life. Makakehau, Maka (eyes) Kehau (mist) was so stricken with grief that he leaped 80 feet to his death. Legend holds that his (misty) tears are the spray when the waves crash.

Be sure to take the 15- to 20-minute hike along the cliffs just southeast of the tide pools to view the Lana’i landmark, Puu Pehe up close. Hike up the path along the rocky cliffs and you’ll soon overlook the iconic Sweetheart Rock that rises majestically 80 feet out of the water. It’s breathtaking!

Fronting the Four Seasons Resort Lana’i and named one of America’s best beaches, Hulopoe Beach is the best spot on the island for snorkeling and swimming. Located on Lanai’s southern coast, Hulopoe Bay greets you with a stunning expanse of pearl-white sand and crystal blue waters. We could even see a blow hole from our lanai. 

One of the highlights of Hulopoe Bay is its large tide pools located at the eastern side of the bay. Carved out of volcanic rock, these tide pools are well protected, keeping the waters calm for exploring. Tide pools are created when rocky shores are covered and then exposed by the fluctuating tide.

We thoroughly enjoyed a relaxing day at the beach. Since Mama G can’t walk long distances, the accommodating resort staff arranged to drive us down to the beach park in one of the resort’s Tesla’s. The beach attendants set us up in a prime spot with beach umbrellas, lounge chairs and fluffy white resort towels where we could stare out at the azure waters and doze off listening to the waves breaking on the shore. I brought along our Bose speaker and played Hawaiian music for us to enjoy. Not a bad way to spend a day relaxing. 

In fact, we could have spent the entire time lounging at the resort, but we rented a Jeep for a day and set out on an adventure far away from the comforts of our temporary home to explore new territory. Passing through Lana’i City, we headed toward Shipwreck Beach. 

Strong trade winds and big channel swells have made the north shore of Lana’i a hazardous area for navigation, evidenced by the ships that have wrecked along its six mile coastline known as Shipwreck Beach. There are at least a dozen vessels known to have been accidentally, and sometimes intentionally, grounded here, from barges and steamships to schooners, and, for this reason, it has become a popular spot for beachcombing, hiking, and photographing its large wrecks.

Lucky for us, we could see the largest of the wrecked ships from the road high above where we also took in majestic views of Molokai and Maui on our way over the mountain. The aerial photo below is courtesy of the Hawai’i Tourism Authority.  When you wind your way to the bottom of the mountain, there is a fork in the road where the pavement ends and a sign points toward Shipwreck Beach to the left. Then you drive onto a sand road. 

On the sand road, we went down into a dip and never came back up. I tried to shift to 4-wheel drive but it wouldn’t work. Then we went back and forth between reverse and drive, kicking up sand and promptly digging ourselves so far into the ground that sand was practically coming in through the doors, and the axle was almost buried in the earth.

To make matters more alarming, I couldn’t get cell phone service. Thankfully Mama G was able to call roadside assistance, which costs $500. At this point I thought it was my fault we were stuck so I was prepared to pay the outrageous bill just to get us out of there. We lost time (about an hour and a half) waiting for roadside assistance but met a lovely local couple, James Truman and Carol DeShay-Truman, who came along and offered to assist us. 

Mr. Truman said, “I should be able to get you out of there.” He gave it a try but upon exiting the Jeep, he said, “The 4-wheel drive isn’t working.” His diagnostic report made me feel more at ease realizing that it wasn’t my fault we were stuck. Subsequently, the resort manager agreed and removed the roadside assistance fee from our bill.

Once they brought us a new Jeep, all we could see was dust in the rear-view mirror as we were trying to make up for lost time. We made it back to Lana’i City where you turn right at the Lana’i Ranch stables and enter a narrow red dirt road covering a vast space of hills. You feel like you are on Mars as you bounce your way to Keahikawelo.

Also known as Garden of the Gods, it’s a visual wonder uniquely characterized by boulders of varying sizes, shapes and colors. Its appearance is simply unmatched in all the Hawaiian islands, and you won’t have to be a geology buff to appreciate the dramatic formations that litter the landscape.

Science will tell you that these formations are the result of thousands of years of erosion that created pinnacles and buttes in one remote canyon area. Just one look, however, and you’ll wonder whether each rock has been placed for some divine purpose.

Before dinner, we drove to Kaumalapau Harbor, located on the southwestern coast and the main commercial seaport for Lana’i. The original harbor breakwater was built in the 1920s by James Dole, the founder of the Hawaiian Pineapple Company. After years of hurricanes severely damaging the harbor, the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers constructed a new breakwater. The project was dedicated on July 7, 2007 and now Kaumalapau Harbor has a one of a kind look with a $28.2 million price tag. Buttressed by 819 white 35-ton Core-Loc armor units — the largest of their kind in the world — the harbor appears to be surrounded by giant, jack-like concrete blocks.  The aerial photo below is courtesy of the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers.

At Kaumalapau Harbor, you can perch yourself atop a stone wall alongside local fishermen and women and treat yourself to a magical sunset. This is one of the best and most accessible spots on the island to get an unobstructed view of the sunset. The drive to Kaumalapau Harbor is also quite scenic, giving you distant views of western Lanai’s dramatic sea cliffs, which are quite breathtaking, especially at sunset.

For dinner that night we went back to town and dined al fresco at Lana’i City Bar & Grille, part of the Hotel Lana’i. Comfortable and elegant, the bar and dining area recall Hotel Lanai’s plantation history with rustic, vintage charm and warm Hawaiian hospitality. Head to the open-air lanai to enjoy an evening dining under the stars among towering Cook pine trees, often with live local entertainment. We endured the sprinkles of a passing shower but were quite pleased overall with the ambience, service and food. Mama G raved about the pulled pork sandwich. Be sure to ask for the baked-to-order cookie skillet, which is a chocolate chip cookie featuring both milk and white chocolate chips, baked in a small cast iron skillet and topped with vanilla ice cream. 

In Lana’i City, we stopped at the service station in this tiny town because when Mama G asked someone if there’s anywhere to shop, they replied, “You can buy T-shirts at the gas staton.”  It felt like we were on Green Acres going to town, excited to visit the general store.  Not only is there a small population, there is no traffic.  In fact, there is not a single traffic light on the entire island of Lana’i. 

Another evening, we visited the Four Seasons’ sister property Sensei Lana’i. A shuttle took us from the beach resort to the lodge and a chauffeured Tesla returned us after we enjoyed dining at the extravagant Sensei by NOBU. 

Light and airy in whites and creams with glossy wood floors and formal touches like wainscoting, the Sensei Lodge reminds me exactly of what I think the inside of Oprah’s house on Maui must look like. We were ready to move in and perch in front of either of the two fireplaces anchoring the vast lobby, adding a touch of warmth. Mama G was enthralled with the green anthurium arrangements that were artfully displayed as the centerpiece of the lobby. It looked like a creation by celebrity florist, Jeff Leatham, known for his impressive floral installations at the Four Seasons George V in Paris.

The Sensei by NOBU restaurant offers a menu with health conscious choices since it’s a wellness retreat. Guests can dine morning, noon and night surrounded by the beauty of nature. A glass pavilion sits upon a reflecting pond, offering indoor and outdoor tables. A 16-seat communal table, welcoming you to gather with friends old and new, is temporarily closed, a victim of social distancing. There were a handful of other tables occupied and scattered around the large, spacious dining room. 

Chef Nobu Matsuhisa has long been at the forefront of innovative cuisine grounded in Japanese sensibilities and clean ingredients. Guests of Four Seasons will enjoy a wellness menu created by Chef Nobu and his team in close collaboration with Sensei’s nutritionists. On the Sensei by NOBU menu are such favorites as the world-renowned black cod with miso, as well as a new selection inspired by the bounty of the steps-away Sensei Farm Lana’i, and the neighboring islands and waters of Hawai’i.

We split the signature black cod for a starter and had two salad choices, a Greek and a spicy shrimp with quinoa. Both salads featured local tomatoes with vibrant flavors. The shrimp was so spicy that my mouth was on fire.  We both opted for the Wagyu strip steak entree complemented with a side of exotic mushrooms and ube (Japanese purple sweet potato). A coffee hazelnut mille-feuille accompanied by bitter chocolate sorbet finished the evening.  Mille-feuille is a rich French dessert consisting of many layers of thin pastry with cream fillings.

To work off some calories and take in the unique natural beauty of Lana’i, I went horseback riding at Lana’i Ranch at Koele, across the street from the Four Seasons Sensei Lodge. I rode through the fog and into the hills surrounding Koele – once the center of ranching operations on the island – and explored the lush woodlands, home to axis deer and wild turkey. 

I talked story with my wrangler, Molly, passing through Ironwood forests to breathtaking vistas of neighbor islands. An assortment of trails meander through the wooded peaks and valleys of this extraordinary upland terrain, so riders of all ages and skill levels can saddle up. 

Back at the stables, I told Alexis, one of the ranch hands, that I love goats. She said, “All you have to do is yell, ‘Goats, Goats, Goats!’ and they come running!” I thought she was kidding me until she hollered, “Goats! Goats! Goats!” and sure enough a herd of goats came running at me so fast that if the fence hadn’t been between us, they’d have stampeded me. What a joyful delight! She even let me feed the Tita (female bully) of the pack.

On our last day, Bradley, the Four Seasons beach resort manager, arranged for us to have a late check-out as well as a private driver in a Tesla to take us up to the top of the mountain for one last lunch in heaven at The Views restaurant at the Manele Golf Course. Following lunch, our driver escorted us to Sensei Lodge where we were treated to a private tour, led by Luis, the Sensei manager, himself.  He drove us around on a state of the art golf cart to inspect the breathtaking gardens up close. We were in awe of the natural beauty and took turns guessing at the amount of manpower and hours required to maintain the immaculate grandeur.  There are separate hales (houses) for spa treatments and wellness classes.  There are huge ponds and outdoor sculptures.  Flora and fauna from all around the world rival any botanical gardens’ collection.

Lana’i is truly a beautiful, special and unique island. Traveling there is like turning back time to the Old Hawai’i. Mama G commented that Lana’i City, with its tin roof homes, reminded her of her small hometown of Waipahu on Oahu when she was a little girl. It’s a very tranquil and peaceful slice of heaven. Being there is almost surreal. We got lost wandering through the lush gardens and koi ponds at the beach resort and serendipitously happened upon a hula performance featuring two dancers with the ocean for a backdrop. They swayed in rhythm with each other, both of them in synch with the palm trees blowing in the trade winds behind them. Four Seasons thinks of everything to make your experience memorable.

In addition to natural beauty and outdoor adventures, Lana’i is home to the award-winning twin Four Seasons Resorts (the lodge or the beach) as well as many mouth watering dining options, serving the most exclusive world class gastronomical delights. Flying in the private plane and being whisked to the five-diamond property is like guest starring in “Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous.” Juxtaposing the fancy shmancy extravagances and indulgences, the simplicity of the small island life and the sensory pleasures of sitting outside listening to the crashing waves of the ocean while staring up at the spectacular visual display of stars unspoiled by urbanity, contributes to the uniqueness of this extraordinary island gem. The pictures and stories do not substitute for experiencing Lana’i personally.

We commented on how special it was to practically have the resort to ourselves.  There were very few people visiting and all were Kama’Aina.  The local residents were happy to be back to work providing hospitality that seems to come naturally, if a bit on the slow side.  Do not expect anything to move quickly here.  Everything is on island time.

I am very blessed and extremely grateful for the unique experience and the unforgettable time spent with Mama G, LuLu and Spike—even stuck in the sand in a Jeep with no 4-wheel drive, which, according to Mama G, is now a funny story to tell. Today’s moments become tomorrow’s memories, so make them count, especially during these unprecedented and challenging times of the pandemic. This sojourn gave us a much-needed boost to our spirits and a brief respite from the current chaotic state of our world. It was a reminder of the everyday things we all used to take for granted not so long ago as well as a hopeful vision of what’s to come in better days ahead.

North American Wild West: Part VI Utah

We wrapped up our extensive tour of the North American Wild West in Utah. Every state thinks it’s fun. Every state claims to have “something for everyone.” But not every state has 3.5 distinct geographic regions, five national parks, 45 state parks, five national historic sites and trails, and a dozen national monuments and recreation areas. Perfect powder, rugged red rock, alpine lakes and more. According to Utah.com, “If Utah don’t got it, you don’t need it.”

From the foothills of the Wasatch Mountains, to the shores of the Great Salt Lake, Salt Lake City is full of energetic individuals creating the dynamic and unique capital and most populous municipality in the state of Utah. With an estimated population of 190,000, the city is the core of the Salt Lake City metropolitan area, which has a population of 1.1 million.

Downtown Salt Lake City is clean and well kept with beautiful plush carpets of green grass accented with pretty flowers and unique trees. The architecture is splendid, including the State Capitol, large homes with well-manicured gardens on the hillside and the Salt Lake Temple.

The temple of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints (LDS) is located on Temple Square in downtown Salt Lake City. At 253,015 square feet, it is the largest LDS temple by floor area. Dedicated in 1893, it is the sixth temple completed by the church, requiring 40 years to complete, and the fourth temple built since the Mormon exodus from Nauvoo, Illinois, in 1846. The mammoth LDS office building is located next to the temple.

We have cousins from Hawaii, Kalai and Germaine Balutski, who have a second home in the Salt Lake suburb of Murray. We parked the coach at their house, booked studio suites at the brand new and spacious Home 2 Suites and rented a van to drive four hours (each way) to see Bryce Canyon.

Bryce Canyon National Park, a sprawling reserve in southern Utah, is known for crimson-colored hoodoos, which are spire-shaped rock formations. The park’s main road leads past the expansive Bryce Amphitheater, a hoodoo-filled depression lying below the Rim Trail hiking path. It has overlooks at Sunrise Point, Sunset Point, Inspiration Point and Bryce Point. Prime viewing times are around sunup and sundown. We also enjoyed looking over Fairyland Canyon, where you can see the hoodoos up close by taking a short walk down a gravel trail on the edge of the cliff.

Sublime viewpoints are found all along the park’s 18-mile main road which travels from the park’s only entrance in the north along the plateau rim to its highest elevations in the south (over 9,000 ft.). Hiking trails explore the forests of the plateau, connect between viewpoints along the rim of the Bryce Amphitheater, and wander through the hoodoos below. There is also a natural bridge.

Bryce Canyon offers two campground sites (one in winter) and lodging is available at the Bryce Canyon Lodge during the summer season. During winter, hotel rooms are available in the park at the Sunset Hotel. We all enjoyed the spectacular Red Canyon on the way out of town.

No trip to Salt Lake City would be complete without a visit to the Great Salt Lake. Located in the northern part of the city, it’s the largest salt water lake in the Western Hemisphere. In an average year the lake covers an area of around 1,700 square miles, but the lake’s size fluctuates substantially due to its shallowness. For instance, in 1963 it reached its lowest recorded size at 950 square miles, but in 1988 the surface area was at the historic high of 3,300 square miles. In terms of surface area, it is the largest lake in the United States that is not part of the Great Lakes region.

The Great Salt Lake State Park is open sunrise to sunset. Normal visitor center and gift shop hours are 8:00 a.m. – 8:00 p.m. This State Park provides boat slips, public viewpoints of Great Salt Lake, sail and motorboat access, and a search and rescue operations center.

The lake, which is two to seven times saltier than the ocean, is also a popular destination for bird watching as it is a major stop for millions of migratory birds. The park’s campground is open year-round and offers RV sites that can accommodate up to a 40′ RV. Campsites have water and electricity.

Walking down to the water, we were taken aback by the armies of tiny black bugs swarming around the rocks and water. We dipped our toes in the warm water and they came out covered in gray mud. Conveniently, there is a foot wash just outside the visitor center, which also has washrooms.

While in Salt Lake City, we had some “down time” the last couple days of the trip and there are always issues that occur while traveling. The extra time was filled by installing a new air conditioning unit on the Yoder’s coach, fixing the adhesive around the windows on the bus and taking the dogs to the vet.

Camping World in Draper handled the issues related to the RV while the dogs visited the Mountain View Animal Hospital to obtain the health certificates required for re-entry to Hawaii. The process of traveling with dogs to Hawaii, even when the dogs reside there, is time-consuming, complicated and expensive. Dr. Moore and the staff were extremely friendly and professional. The vet also prescribed muscle relaxers for Spike, who was suffering with back issues related to “being the equivalent of a 50-year-old-man.”

The mountains that surround the Salt Lake City metropolitan region are very captivating. The people are quite friendly. We enjoyed a simple meal at Mimi’s Cafe with good service from the manager, Mike. We even shopped at the Southtown Mall which reminded me of the malls of my childhood growing up in the 80’s. The stores were full and people milled around the space which seemed to be as much of a gathering place as a shopping destination.

I enjoyed an illy iced latte and a 20-minute chair massage, a relaxing end to the extremely challenging itinerary— especially for Sam who did all the driving round trip from Ohio, a total of almost 8,000 miles in less than three weeks.

We covered an extremely ambitious area of land, primarily concentrated in four states, two countries, two provinces and too many national parks to remember. As the sun set on the last evening, we reflected with gratitude for the time spent making meaningful memories together as a family.

North American Wild West: Part V Idaho & Wyoming

We crossed the border from Montana into Idaho marking my 43rd state to have the good fortune to visit. It was a good topic of conversation among our group, “How many states have you visited?” Mama G is the only one to have been to all 50 states.

It was rainy and cold as we drove to Idaho Falls, which is a city in and the county seat of Bonneville County, Idaho, and the state’s largest city outside the Boise metropolitan area, with a population of 61,000. Hugging the Snake River, the Greenbelt is a system of trails with parks and a waterfall. The riverside Art Museum of Eastern Idaho showcases eclectic works. Downtown’s Museum of Idaho has local-history exhibits, including items linked to the Lewis and Clark expedition and a re-created 1800s town.

Again, we parked the coach, booked hotel rooms and rented a minivan to explore nearby Grand Tetons National Park and the iconic Jackson Hole. About 90 miles from Idaho Falls, Grand Teton National Park is located in northwestern Wyoming. At approximately 310,000 acres (480 sq mi) the park includes the major peaks of the 40-mile-long Teton Range as well as most of the northern sections of the valley known as Jackson Hole.

Jackson is a town in Wyoming’s Jackson Hole valley, home to three ski areas: Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, Snow King Mountain Resort and Grand Targhee Resort. The Town Square features arches made of shed antlers from the nearby National Elk Refuge. The National Museum of Wildlife Art has works by Andy Warhol and Georgia O’Keeffe. 

It seems fitting that Jackson Hole is where pioneers sought new adventures just as we’ve been doing on our epic journey through the North American Wild West. I’ve wanted to visit Jackson Hole since I first heard about it when I was a little boy and my dad would come back with countless stories of his hunting trips “out west” with my Uncle George and Grandpa Pete in the Winnebago. One Christmas we fantasized about planning a family trip there together which unfortunately never panned out.

Just outside of town, the National Elk Refuge was created in 1912 to protect habitat and provide sanctuary for one of the largest elk herds on the planet. A total of 24,700 acres, the refuge is home to an average of 7,500 elk each winter. The refuge is managed by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service.

We enjoyed dinner at the iconic Jackson Hole restaurant, Million Dollar Cowboy Steakhouse. In December 2015, Chef Paulie O’Connor took over management of the place. In keeping with the longstanding traditions and Western vibe of the restaurant, located beneath the legendary Million Dollar Cowboy Bar (featuring horse saddles for barstools), Paulie modernized the menu, incorporating some of his signature, handcrafted specialties like pastas, cheeses, breads, house-cured meats and sausages.

The new Jackson Hole Million Dollar Cowboy Steakhouse menu focuses on a carefully curated selection of meats including dry-aged and Wagyu beef sourced from the best local and regional farms. I devoured the most perfectly cooked and scrumptious filet of the entire trip.

The long and winding drive home in the dark was punctuated with scary deer sightings on the side of the road. The gorgeous Wyoming night sky was illuminated by the stars and moon, which reflected magically on the Snake River. There was lightning in the distance and we even saw a shooting star.

Our cousins, Cheryl Iseri, and her son, Michael, drove four hours from Boise and we enjoyed lunch with them at the outstanding Teton House Restaurant in the town of Blackfoot, Idaho, which they found for us.

The restaurant we dined in is the second location. The original resides in one of Idaho’s historical landmarks, the Menan Bank, built in the early 1900’s in the town of Menan. The American steakhouse and NW cuisine direction featured at both locations is all part of the plan to make Teton House a destination eatery for people from around the region, as well as the stopping place for travelers to Tetons, Yellowstone and other landmarks and close by destinations.

Everyone loved the Brussels sprout petals, which were flash fried and tossed with truffle oil and sea salt. Mike had the Teton Chicken and Cheryl had the special, which also featured the Teton chicken but was served in a pineapple bowl, which made for a beautiful presentation, with bacon and spicy Thai sauce. Halibut, shrimp and cod are also offered. They make the most delicious hand-cut French fries and quite possibly the best burger I’ve ever tasted—served on a ciabatta roll.

Speaking of spuds, we visited the Idaho Potato Museum after lunch. You’ll be intrigued as you stroll through the historic building in downtown Blackfoot which was built in 1912.

Once a bustling flurry of activity, the stone depot represents significant ties between the railroad and the potato industry. The Potato Museum provides information on potato history, the growing and harvesting process, nutrition, trivia and educational potato facts.

We enjoyed visiting with family and taking in more of the breathtaking scenery of the Wild West. The next, and final, destination on our epic journey will be Salt Lake City where we will see some more relatives and visit Bryce Canyon.

North American Wild West: Part IV Canadian Rockies

We crossed the border into Canada through the Piegan Border Crossing outside of Glacier National Park in Montana, which has limited hours from 7:00 am-11:00 pm. We passed through Calgary before spending the night in Canmore at the Quality Resort. All the rooms and suites have fireplaces and kitchenettes. Some of the lofts are two-story with a bedroom upstairs.

The view from our lofts on the back of the hotel overlooked the train with mountains in the background. The bright blue sky, morning sun and and low hanging clouds combined for an even more spectacular nature show to wake up to. Several in our party enjoyed breakfast at the hotel restaurant, Chez Francois.

Canmore is a charming town in Alberta’s Rocky Mountains, west of Calgary. It’s known for craggy summits like the Three Sisters and Ha Ling Peak. A friend I met on a Scandinavian cruise a few years ago who lives in Calgary said Canmore is her favorite spot in the region.

We enjoyed a late night supper on our first night in Canmore at the Iron Goat Pub & Grill. They feature wild game burgers and steaks, beef burgers and steaks, salads, pizzas, seafood, and other nightly specials like rack of lamb.

The outdoor patio offers stunning mountain views. Our friendly waitress from Australia said she came to the area to snowboard in the mountains for a winter and fell in love. She’s now been in the area for two years and the restaurant is sponsoring her to obtain a visa.

The region is breathtakingly beautiful but personally I would not want to brave the winters. For those who enjoy outdoor winter activities, though, it’s haven on earth with bountiful options.

The next day, we continued on to Banff, a resort town in the province of Alberta, located within Banff National Park. The peaks of Mt. Rundle and Mt. Cascade, part of the Rocky Mountains, dominate its skyline.

On Banff Avenue, the main thoroughfare, boutiques and restaurants mix with château-style hotels and souvenir shops. I even got my Starbucks fix which I prefer over the local favorite, Tim Horton’s. Others in our group shopped for souvenirs. Sam scored some shirts from the Banff Harley Davidson store. We all loved Banff with its charming Swiss and French influences.

The surrounding 1.6 million acres of parkland are ostensibly home to large and varied amounts of wildlife including caribou, elk and grizzly bears. The overall absence of animals on our day-long drive, though, was extremely disappointing. We only saw two deer near the park entrance but we were extremely ecstatic to finally see one enormous grizzly bear eating foliage along the road just outside of Jasper and a lone black bear in Banff National Park on our way back to Canmore. Sam impressed us by spotting the bear while also driving through the mountains in the rain.

The Canadian Rockies mountain range spans the provinces of British Columbia and Alberta. With jagged, ice-capped peaks, including towering Mt. Robson, it’s a region of alpine lakes, diverse wildlife and outdoor recreation sites. National parks in Alberta are Jasper, with the famously accessible Athabasca Glacier, and Banff, site of glacier-fed Lake Louise, which was the next, and arguably the most impressive, place we visited within Banff National Park, and perhaps anywhere on our entire trip.

Lake Louise is a hamlet in Banff National Park in the Canadian Rockies, known for its turquoise, glacier-fed lake ringed by high peaks and overlooked by the stately Chateau Lake Louise, a Fairmont hotel with rates starting at $740 a night. The hotel has spectacular gardens at the water’s edge.

Hiking trails wind up to the Lake Agnes Tea House for bird’s-eye views. There’s a canoe dock in summer, and a skating rink on the frozen lake in winter. There are horseback riding and wildlife tour opportunities in the area.

The Lake Louise Ski Resort features a wildlife interpretive center at the top of a gondola. The elevation is 5,249 feet.

From Lake Louise we drove to Jasper which takes about three hours depending on photo stops. Gas up your vehicle and take along plenty of snacks as there are very few rest areas for washrooms or refreshments.

We passed Bow Lake, Crowfoot Glacier, and Columbian Icefields while driving through Banff and Jasper National Parks. For the brave adventurer, there is the glacial skywalk—a half moon glass walkway hanging off the side of the mountain overlooking a deep valley.

After driving through the Rockies, we arrived in Jasper, an alpine town in Canada’s Alberta province, which is the commercial center of Jasper National Park. Amid the snow-capped Canadian Rockies, the park has glacier-fed lakes, forests and rivers. The Jasper SkyTram climbs to the summit of Whistlers Mountain, with views of downtown.

If you want to stay in Jasper, be sure to make reservations for accommodations well in advance as the hotels and inns fill up, especially when the train is in town. We topped off the van with gas and filled our own tanks with fast food before the four-hour return drive to Canmore. Despite the long day in the vehicle, the natural surroundings were an outstanding demonstration of God’s handiwork.

After leaving Canmore the next morning, we headed back to Kalispell, Montana where we had left the Yoder’s private tour bus at the campground. Our route back took us through Kootenay National Park in British Colombia. Break-neck views enchanted us at every curve in the road, from jagged mountain tops to Marble Canyon and from wildflowers and trees to countless rivers and streams with crystal-clear, blue waters.

We rounded out our visit to the Canadian Rockies with a delicious lunch at the Horse Thief Creek Pub in the small town of Radium Hot Springs. We also enjoyed a picturesque drive through the beautiful little town of Invemere on the Lake.

Everywhere you look is a picture postcard. To understand the natural forces involved in the creation of the Canadian Rockies, put a piece of notebook paper flat on a table. Put your hands on the opposite two ends. Slide your hands toward each other, and the paper will lift right up between your hands. This is how the Rockies were formed, except in place of paper was huge rocky plates, and instead of hands were huge forces caused by the rocks deep, deep down moving towards the west and running into other huge rocky plates. When the earth’s plates moved most of them crashed and they started to go up. The result is a breathing region on planet earth that ought to be on your bucket list if it isn’t already.

North American Wild West: Part III Glacier National Park

Driving through Montana on the way from Livingston to Kalispell, we passed the enchanting Flathead Lake, which is the largest natural freshwater lake west of the Mississippi in the lower 48 states, with over 200 square miles of water and 185 miles of shoreline.

The southern half of Flathead Lake is within the boundary of the Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes Flathead Reservation. Recreationists must purchase a tribal recreation permit. Montana Fish Wildlife and Parks maintains thirteen public access sites around the lake.

Many celebrities, including Julia Roberts and Tom Cruise are said to have vacation homes on the tranquil lake that is virtually surrounded by mountains.

We parked the coach at the Greenwood Village Inn and Suites, which is a combination campground, mobile home park and hotel about 45 minutes outside of Glacier National Park. We rented a minivan to drive through the park, including the famous Going-to-the-Sun Road, and up into the Canadian Rockies.

Before entering the park we stopped at The Huckleberry Patch to buy some products made from locally grown huckleberries, including pie, jam and licorice, which everyone loved. Huckleberries’ taste is reminiscent of grapes.

Known to Native Americans as the “Shining Mountains” and the “Backbone of the World,” Glacier National Park preserves more than a million acres of forest, Alpine Meadows, lakes, rugged peaks and glacial-carved valleys in the northern Rocky Mountains. The landscape is a hiker’s paradise that is traversed by more than 740 miles of maintained trails. Sam and I prefer to keep our hiking restricted to Hawaii where there aren’t any snakes, but some of the trails we saw from the vehicle looked intriguing and the natural surroundings are breathtaking.

A highlight of Glacier National Park is Going-to-the-Sun Road. The Sun Road, as it is sometimes abbreviated in National Park Service documents, is the only road that traverses the park, crossing the Continental Divide through Logan Pass at an elevation of 6,646 feet, which is the highest point on the road.

The Continental Divide of the Americas is the principal, and largely mountainous, hydrological divide of the Americas. The Continental Divide is a ridge of high ground that runs irregularly north and south through the Rocky Mountains and separates eastward-flowing from westward-flowing streams.

Construction of the Going-to-the-Sun Road began in 1921 and was completed in 1932 with formal dedication in the following summer on July 15, 1933. The road is the first to have been registered in all of the following categories: National Historic Place, National Historic Landmark, and Historic Civil Engineering Landmark.

The length of the road is approximately 50 miles and spans the width of the park between the east and west entrance stations. It takes approximately three hours to drive (one way) depending on how many photo and bathroom stops you make. When you get to St. Mary’s at the end there are restaurants, stores and a gas station. You can also take a boat ride tour on St. Mary’s Lake.

Portions of Going-to-the-Sun Road remain open all year and provide access to many locations and activities. The opening of the alpine portion varies, based on snowfall and plowing progress. There is no set date for the road to open. Typically the road becomes fully open in late June or early July. Closing portions of Going-to-the-Sun Road is also weather dependent. Typically the road is fully open until the third Monday of October, but that can change due to weather conditions at any point.

Glacier National Park had been on my bucket list for a long time, and nature’s bounty did not disappoint. Driving the Going-to-the-Sun Road was so scary from the front passenger’s seat that I found myself leaning left away from the cliffs while clutching the arm rest with one hand and clinging to the dashboard with the other. It was much more intimidating than the famous Road to Hana on Maui.

The sheer magnitude and grandeur of the natural surroundings are a masterpiece of God’s creativity and a reminder of how powerful the natural elements can be. The lakes, streams, glaciers, trees, wildflowers, waterfalls and variety of mountain backdrops are a nature photographer’s dream come true.

North American Wild West: Part II Yellowstone

From South Dakota we crossed through Wyoming on our way to Livingston, Montana. Along the way we stopped at Little Bighorn Battlefield.

The Battle of the Little Bighorn was fought along the ridges, steep bluffs, and ravines of the Little Bighorn River, in south-central Montana on June 25-26, 1876. The combatants were warriors of the Lakota Sioux, Northern Cheyenne, and Arapaho tribes, battling men of the 7th Regiment of the US Cavalry. The Battle of the Little Bighorn has come to symbolize the clash of two vastly dissimilar cultures: the buffalo/horse culture of the northern plains tribes, and the highly industrial/agricultural based culture of the United States. This battle was not an isolated soldier versus warrior confrontation, but part of a much larger strategic campaign designed to force the capitulation of the non-reservation Lakota and Cheyenne.

In 1868, many Lakota leaders agreed to sign the Treaty of Fort Laramie. This treaty created a large reservation in the western half of present-day South Dakota. The United States wanted tribes to give up their nomadic life which brought them into conflict with other Indians, white settlers and railroads.

Agreeing to the treaty meant accepting a more stationary life and relying on government-supplied subsidies. Lakota leaders such as Sitting Bull and Crazy Horse rejected the reservation system. Likewise, many roving bands of hunters and warriors did not sign the 1868 treaty. They felt no obligation to conform to its restrictions, or to limit their hunting only to the land assigned by the treaty.

Their forays off the set aside lands brought them into conflict with settlers and enemy tribes outside the treaty boundaries. Tension between the United States and the Lakota escalated in 1874, when Lt. Col. George Armstrong Custer was ordered to make an exploration of the Black Hills inside the boundary of the Great Sioux Reservation. Custer was to map the area, locate a suitable site for a future military post, and to make note of the natural resources.

During the expedition, professional geologists discovered deposits of gold. Word of the discovery of mineral wealth caused an invasion of miners and entrepreneurs to the Black Hills in direct violation of the treaty of 1868. The United States negotiated with the Lakota to purchase the Black Hills, but the offered price was rejected by the Lakota. The climax came in the winter of 1875, when the Commissioner of Indian Affairs issued an ultimatum requiring all Sioux to report to a reservation by January 31, 1876. The deadline came with virtually no response from the Indians, and matters were handed to the military.

The battle was a momentary victory for the Lakota and Cheyenne. The death of Custer and his troops became a rallying point for the United States to increase their efforts to force native peoples onto reservation lands. With more troops in the field, Lakota hunting grounds were invaded by powerful Army expeditionary forces determined to conquer the Northern Plains Indians. Most of the declared “hostiles” had surrendered within one year of the fight, and the Black Hills were taken by the US government without compensation.

Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument preserves the site. It also serves as a memorial to those who fought in the battle: George Armstrong Custer’s 7th Cavalry and a combined Lakota-Northern Cheyenne and Arapaho force. Custer National Cemetery, on the battlefield, is part of the national monument. There are white tombstones scattered across the rolling foothills marking where lives were lost.

We parked the RV at the KOA between Livingston and Yellowstone National Park along the banks of the Yellowstone River. We also booked rooms at the Yellowstone Pioneer Lodge in Livingston. There is a variety of newer lodging closer to the park, mostly in the quaint western town of Gardiner with a population of 875 residents. These options book far in advance and there are many annual repeat guests. Another beautiful option for parking motor homes that had no vacancy is the Yellowstone’s Edge RV park, with camp sites along the riverbank. We rented SUV’s to drive through the park.

Dubbed “America’s Living Natural History Museum,” on March 1, 1872, Yellowstone became the first national park for all to enjoy the unique hydrothermal wonders. Greater Yellowstone’s diversity of natural wealth includes the hydrothermal features, wildlife, vegetation, lakes, and geologic wonders like the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River. The river snakes through the vast and varied terrain providing breathtaking vistas to have a picnic or simply admire the sunlight’s sparkling reflection on the rippling water with mountains in the distance.

We found ourselves oohing and aahing at the jaw-dropping geysers, hot springs, fumaroles, fountain paint pots and waterfalls. The fountain paint pots are bizarre ponds of boiling hot mud that causes bubbling at the surface. While it’s fascinating to stroll along the boardwalks above the boiling hot springs, it’s critical to take heed of the warnings. In thermal areas the ground may be only a thin crust above the scalding mud. There is no way to guess a safe path as new hazards can literally bubble up overnight, and some pools are acidic enough to burn through boots. More than a dozen people have been scalded to death and hundreds badly burned and scarred.

We stood in the blazing hot afternoon sun as Old Faithful teased us before erupting into the sky where the steam generated by the explosion billowed into the air blending with ease into the cotton-like powdery white clouds that punctuated the bright blue skies. Discovered in 1870 by the Washburn Expedition, Old Faithful geyser was named for its frequent and somewhat predictable eruptions, which occur about every 90 minutes. After watching Mother Nature’s spectacular show, we had lunch at the cafeteria inside the lodge which also features a gift store and coffee shop.

I had no idea that the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River existed. The canyon below the Lower Yellowstone Falls was at one time the site of a geyser basin that was the result of rhyolite lava flows, extensive faulting, and heat beneath the surface related to the hot spot. No one is sure exactly when the geyser basin was formed in the area, although it was probably present at the time of the last glaciation.

The chemical and heat action of the geyser basin caused the rhyolite rock to become hydrothermally altered, making it very soft and brittle and more easily erodible. Evidence of this thermal activity still exists in the canyon in the form of geysers and hot springs that are still active and visible. The Clear Lake area, which is fed by hot springs, south of the canyon is probably also a remnant of this activity.

When the ice dams melted, a great volume of water was released downstream causing massive flash floods and immediate and catastrophic erosion of the present-day canyon. These flash floods probably happened more than once. The canyon is a classic V-shaped valley, indicative of river-type erosion rather than glaciation. Today the canyon is still being eroded by the Yellowstone River.

The colors in the canyon are also a result of hydrothermal alteration. The rhyolite in the canyon contains a variety of different iron compounds. When the old geyser basin was active, the “cooking” of the rock caused chemical alterations in these iron compounds. Exposure to the elements caused the rocks to change colors. The rocks are oxidizing; in effect, the canyon is rusting. The colors indicate the presence or absence of water in the individual iron compounds. Most of the yellows in the canyon are the result of iron present in the rock rather than, as many people think, sulfur.

As development spread across the West, the 2.2 million acres of habitat within the park became an important sanctuary for the largest concentration of wildlife in the lower 48 states. The abundance and distribution of these animal species depend on their interactions with each other and on the quality of their habitats, which in turn is the result of thousands of years of volcanic activity, forest fires, changes in climate, and more recent natural and human influences.

Most of the park is above 7,500 feet in elevation and underlain by volcanic bedrock. The terrain is covered with snow for much of the year and supports forests dominated by lodgepole pine and interspersed with alpine meadows. Sagebrush steppe and grasslands on the park’s lower-elevation ranges provide essential winter forage for elk, bison, and bighorn sheep. Unfortunately, we were lamenting the absence of wildlife all day. in fact we’d only seen some eerie ravens. Just before we gave up hope, God smiled on us and some animals came out at dusk as we were leaving the park.

A white SUV coming toward us pulled to the side of the road and the occupants were pointing out the windows. They told us they’d spotted a black bear. Almost instantaneously all cars in both directions stopped and people took to the road by foot tripping over each other in order to see this bear having its dinner on the sagebrush whilst being camouflaged by a tree trunk and foliage.

About another ten miles down the road we came to a halt with excitement as an enormous black bear was at the edge of the road pacing in agitation. People were climbing out of their sunroofs to get photos. Next on the wildlife safari was a lone antelope in the tall grass taking a nap or perhaps on the hunt for his supper. Finally, we came upon herds of elk as we exited the park. Their babies make an excited, high-pitched squealing noise and one looked directly at us while doing a little comical jumping dance as our five-pound Yorkie Spike barked at the baby elk with equal enthusiasm.

We stopped in Gardiner on our way out of Yellowstone. Quaint, Old West-style Gardiner sits on the north edge of Yellowstone, making it a convenient gateway town. It’s the only year-round entrance to the park. Pretty much everything in Gardiner is colorful from the scenery and people to the names of dishes on menus.

Even its town name has a curious story. It’s named after an early fur trapper named Johnson Gardner, who spent time in the area and had a reputation as an outlaw. But when the Langford-Washburn-Doan Expedition came through the area in 1870, making detailed maps and observations, they misspelled “Gardner,” adding an unnecessary “i.” The spelling stuck.

Most of Gardiner’s residents work for the park or in the tourism industry. And they all seem to share a great sense of pride in Gardiner’s rough-around-the-edges feel and the natural beauty surrounding it. Our friendly and attentive waitress at the Raven Grill was a prime example. A local who moved to Utah and has returned to work in her hometown for the summer, she shared with us that when other schools in the area would get only an inch of snow they would close. Not the case in Gardiner. She complained that she still had to go to school even when they had “several feet of snow.”

The Raven Grill is a neighborhood restaurant serving fresh regional food cooked over a wood fire grill and served in a casual, comfortable atmosphere. The menu blended local features like elk and bison with traditional items, including burgers and steaks. One of our favorites was the night’s featured penne pasta with sausage and goat cheese in a Madeira wine sauce.

Montana is known as “Big Sky Country” and on the ride back to town after dinner we were treated to a sublime lighting show that illuminated the outline of the mountains in the otherwise pitch-black sky. Before hitting the road for the next destination, Glacier National Park, on our epic road trip through the North American Wild West, we fulfilled the lifelong wish of the family matriarch, Geri Yoder. Mama G commented that the river streaming through the park took her breath away. “I wish I was back in my 30’s and could run down and dip my toes in that river.” We found a spot with easy access to the water near the campground and she giggled with excitement as she stuck her feet in the Yellowstone River.

Travel is about fulfilling dreams and making memories. The joy of shared experiences bonds a family together.

North American Wild West: Part I South Dakota

It started with a simple google search, “Where is the closest airport to Mt. Rushmore?” The answer is Rapid City, South Dakota, and I had the easy task of booking my flight from Honolulu.

The more difficult challenge of planning a driving route through our nation’s sublime national parks and monuments beginning in Ohio and stretching all the way up into the Canadian Rockies fell onto my partner, Sam Yoder, who navigated the Yoder’s personal tour bus with professional expertise. We had our parents, dogs and two of our closest family friends, Mike Vernier and Candy Corbett, in tow. In search of Americana we explored former frontier boom towns and battlefields, taking in the sublime landscapes and interesting people and wildlife, while laughing and eating all the way.

Sam and my parents picked me up in a rented SUV from the Rapid City Airport, which is tiny and rural. We made our way to Canyon Lake Village, where they had parked the 45-foot Newmar Essex, which I refer to as the Dolly Parton tour bus for its luxurious glamping style. This home on wheels boasts beautiful hand carved wood cabinetry, marble and hard wood floors, three slides to expand the space comfortably, washer/dryer, bathroom, satellite televisions, full-size refrigerator and freezer, king-sized bed, leather furniture and many other creature comforts, including our own Starbucks machine to make espresso drinks. We take our comfort seriously. We also rented a two bedroom cottage on site.

Our first stop was the iconic Mount Rushmore. About a 20 minute drive from Rapid City, Mount Rushmore National Memorial is a massive sculpture carved into the Black Hills region of South Dakota. Completed in 1941 under the direction of Gutzon Borglum and his son Lincoln, the sculpture’s roughly 60-ft.-high granite faces depict U.S. Presidents George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt and Abraham Lincoln. The site also features a museum with interactive exhibits. Having seen the monument on everything from post cards to television and history books to cartoons, it was gratifying to behold in person. Sam’s Mom, Geri Yoder, whom we affectionately call “Mama G” remarked that it had such an impact on her that she would have been satisfied if the sojourn had ended there. However, there was so much more to explore.

About 10-15 minutes down the road is Crazy Horse Memorial. Crazy Horse is the world’s largest mountain carving located in the Black Hills of South Dakota. It is considered The Eighth Wonder of the World in progress. The Mission of Crazy Horse Memorial Foundation is to protect and preserve the culture, tradition and living heritage of the North American Indians. Impressively, the site features a museum and university.

We made our way along the breathtaking Needles Highway stopping for reflective photos at Sylvan Lake with its mammoth rock formations jutting up from the water like a movie set. This heavenly slice of Americana evoked patriotism and childhood memories. At one point, Sam started singing “Home on the Range” while driving the green hills and pastures of Custer Park before coming upon a heard of wild buffalo. This is, after all, where “the buffalo roam and the deer and the antelope play.” The giant creatures literally surrounded our vehicles and reminded my parents and I of being on safari in Africa, especially when we saw elongated, open-air Jeeps emblazoned with “Buffalo Safari” logos.

We drove to The Badlands taking in the countless billboards for Wall Drug Store along the way. The rugged beauty of the Badlands draws visitors from around the world. These striking geologic deposits contain one of the world’s richest fossil beds. Ancient mammals such as the rhino, horse, and saber-toothed cat once roamed here. The park’s 244,000 acres protect an expanse of mixed-grass prairie where bison, bighorn sheep, prairie dogs, and black-footed ferrets live today. The prairie dogs were especially entertaining as they jumped from hole to hole squeaking and squealing with delight. They reminded me of “Alvin and the Chipmunks” and even tough-guy Sam thought they were adorable. A herd of big horn sheep grazing and napping in tall, wild grass with the striped clay canyons and orange sunset in the backdrop was something you’d see on National Geographic Television.

Wall Drug Store, often called simply Wall Drug, is a tourist attraction located in the town of Wall, South Dakota. It is a cowboy-themed shopping mall consisting of a drug store, gift shop, restaurants and various other stores, as well as an art gallery and an 80-foot brontosaurus sculpture. Unlike a traditional shopping mall, all the stores at Wall Drug operate under a single entity instead of being individually run stores. The New York Times has described Wall Drug as “a sprawling tourist attraction of international renown [that] draws some two million annual visitors to a remote town.”

The small town drugstore made its first step toward fame when it was purchased by Ted Hustead in 1931. Hustead was a Nebraska native and pharmacist who was looking for a small town with a Catholic church in which to establish his business. He bought Wall Drug, located in a 231-person town in what he referred to as “the middle of nowhere,” and strove to make a living. Business was very slow until his wife, Dorothy, thought of advertising free ice water to parched travelers heading to the newly opened Mount Rushmore monument 60 miles to the west. From that time on business was brisk.

Steak was on the menu for both nights which is no surprise for the mostly meat-and-potato loving crowd visiting the middle of cowboy country. The night before I arrived the group enjoyed Dakota Steakhouse where my Dad devoured a 44-ounce ribeye. We had good burgers and hand cut fries in Keystone despite the annoying flies which are prevalent throughout South Dakota. Local beef production is the norm and Red Rock Restaurant was no exception though the undercooked steaks had to be sent back for more time on the grill. The last day in Sturgis we found Jambonz Grill and Pub featuring southern cooking from Louisiana roots. They even have Po Boys.

The Sturgis Motorcycle Rally is held annually for 10 days starting the first Friday in August, which was the day we happened to be there. Even though it was only the first day, street fairs were already active and motorcycles lined the crowded streets. Young women in bikinis offered “bike washes.” The rally was begun in 1938 by a group of Indian Motorcycle riders and was originally held for stunts and races. Attendance has historically been around 500,000 people, and the event generates around $800 million in revenue for this tiny town.

From Sturgis we ventured on to Deadwood. The discovery of gold in the southern Black Hills in 1874 set off one of the great gold rushes in America. In 1876, miners moved into the northern Black Hills. That’s where they came across a gulch full of dead trees and a creek full of gold and Deadwood was born.

Practically overnight, the tiny gold camp boomed into a town that played by its own rules and attracted outlaws, gamblers and gunslingers along with the gold seekers. Wild Bill Hickok was one of those men who came looking for fortune. But just a few short weeks after arriving, he was gunned down. Calamity Jane also made a name for herself in these parts and is buried next to Hickok in Mount Moriah Cemetery. Other legends, like Potato Creek Johnny, Seth Bullock and Al Swearengen, created their legends and legacies in this tiny Black Hills town.

Billed as the entryway to the Wild West and located in the Black Hills National Forest, Deadwood is where you can play all day and all night. Enjoy the outdoor adventures, hikes, mountain bike rides and ATV trails of the Black Hills by day and the casinos and bars of Deadwood by night.

South Dakota is a slice of Americana that is filled with history and natural wonders. Rapid city is a great home base from which to explore many of the attractions. Continuing on, we made our way through Wyoming and into Montana, headed for Livingston from which we would explore Yellowstone, the topic of my next blog.

Kismet Kona

Growing up in the Midwest, it was a common practice to take weekend road trips. Living in Hawaii is a different story. To experience a weekend getaway, island hopping is the key to a temporary change in surroundings. Having visited Kona for a day earlier this year on an island cruise, I decided to return for a weekend to do some more exploring with the world’s greatest traveling companion, my five-pound Yorkie, Spike.

Kona is on the southwest coast of Hawaii, which is known as the “Big Island.” There are eight islands total in the chain: Hawaii, Oahu, Maui, Kahoolawe, Lanai, Molokai, Kauai and Niihau. The island of Hawaii is the youngest and largest island in the Hawaiian chain. Nearly twice as big as all of the other Hawaiian Islands combined (hence, its nickname, “Big Island”), its sheer size is awe-inspiring. You can travel through all but four of the world’s different climate zones here, ranging from tropical to tundra, a result of the shielding effect and elevations of the massive volcanoes Maunakea and Maunaloa.

After a short 45 minute flight from Honolulu, I took a cab to the King Kamehameha Hotel. Situated along the gentle curve of Alii Drive and Kailua Bay, Kailua-Kona is a romantic seaside village that takes advantage of the protected bay and sunny Kona coastline. The hotel sits directly across from Kailua Pier, which is home to some of the finest big-game fish in in the world. One of the first things you notice is the bright, azure blue waters around Kona and other shores along the Big island. The view from my room reminded me of the Mediterranean.

I walked along the sea wall with waves crashing up onto the sidewalk and found myself at an open air restaurant called The Fish Hopper. With locations in Monterey, California and Kailua-Kona, the restaurant specializes in fresh seafood as well as steaks and features breathtaking views of the Pacific Ocean. I opted for one of the daily features, Parmesan encrusted mahi mahi.

After dinner, I continued walking along Alii Drive where I stumbled upon San Francisco Bay Gourmet Coffee Bar, which features locally grown coffee and Tropical Dreams locally made ice cream. Unable to decide on a flavor, I ended up trying three: mud pie, kona coffee and macadamia nut. They also have açaí bowls, overnight oats, and baked goods.

The next morning I rented a car and drove to St. Benedict Painted Church, which is located about 40 to 45 minutes from downtown Kona. From the intersection of Highway 11 and Highway 160, turn towards the ocean (makai) and follow Hwy 160 for about a mile. Right after the green one mile road marker, you will see a sign for “Painted Church.” Turn right onto Painted Church Road and follow the winding road for .3 miles. Turn right into the church property.

Overlooking beautiful and historic Kealakekua Bay, St. Benedict’s Painted Church is a fascinating place to visit on your journey to the Big Island of Hawaii. Located in the famous Kona coffee growing region, it is the jewel of South Kona, at a place called Honaunau. While it is an important historical site, it is still a vibrant parish, with outreach programs to take care of those in need and to provide medical services for the local community.

The Painted Church was erected in 1899 by Father John Velghe. Without any professional training and using house paint on ordinary wood, he beautified the church with his paintings, which served a dual purpose. In those days few Hawaiians could read and so he taught the Bible stories with pictures-most successfully.

From the church, I made my way to Pu’uhonua O Hōnaunau National Historical Park (Place of Refuge). Pu’uhonua O Honaunau is an ancient place of sanctuary and one of the best spots to learn about the wealth of Hawaiian culture.

In old Hawai’i, if you had broken a law, the penalty was death. Perhaps you had entered into an area that was reserved for only the chiefs, or had eaten forbidden foods. Laws, or kapu, governed every aspect of Hawaiian society. The penalty for breaking these laws was certain death. Your only option for survival was to elude your pursuers and reach the nearest pu’uhonua, or place of refuge.

As you enter, the great wall rises up before you marking the boundaries between the royal grounds and the sanctuary. Many ki’i (carved wooden images) surround the Hale o Keawe temple, housing the bones of the chiefs that infuse the area with their power or mana. If you reached this sacred place, you would be saved.

Today, you may visit Pu’uhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park, and still feel the spirit of peace and forgiveness that continues to surround and bless this special place. There is also world class snorkeling in this gorgeous coastal area.

From the park I drove north through the Kohala coast. Kohala is a land of extremes, from the jagged lava fields surrounding Waikaloa to lush mountain ranch lands in Waimea. Waimea is also known as Kamuela, which happens to by my partner’s Hawaiian name (Samuel in English).

Kamuela/Waimea was named one of the 25 coolest towns in America in 2018 by the Matador Network. Located on an inland plateau at the north end of the Big Island of Hawaii, this is where the cowboy West meets old school Hawaii. It’s home to Parker Ranch, the largest ranch in Hawaii and employer of many of the town’s residents. Here, you’re as likely to see a paniolo, or Hawaiian cowboy, cruising through town on his horse as you are a surfer with a board under her arm.

With an elevation over 2,600 feet, Waimea/Kamuela is cooler than the island’s coastal towns. It also lies at the crossroads of the Big Island’s lush and wet windward side and its sunny and dry leeward coast — everything grows here. It holds one of the best farmers markets you’ll ever go to and is packed with farm-to-table restaurants that are consistently rated as some of the best on the islands.

Lilikoi Café, near the Parker Ranch, offers a scrumptious selection of gourmet salads, sandwiches and baked goods. I opted for the combo plate of three specialty salad selections served over a bed of Manoa lettuce with homemade lilikoi (passion fruit) dressing.

I drove through Historic Honoka’a Town, which is where my partner’s mom’s Hawaiian lineage is traced. Her great grandfather Rickard was the town sheriff and the family homestead is now a Salvation Army. The North Hawaiʻi Education and Research Center (NHERC), part of the University of Hawaii Hilo, features an exhibit space all about the Rickard family, for which a street is also named.

Much of the Big Island is a rural dream of wide-open spaces, and the Hamakua region’s small towns, including Honoka’a and Kukuihaele, have a classic small town charm. About a six mile drive from Honoka’a is the Waipio Valley Lookout. I had seen this breathtaking black sand beach with mountain backdrop while watching “Scenic Hawaii” on the television at home and had to see it for myself. Rich in history and natural beauty, the Waipio Valley is best viewed from the Waipio Valley Lookout.

Just down the hill is the Waipio Valley Artworks Café and Gallery, exclusively featuring Hawaii Island artists and koa furniture. I chatted with the shopkeeper, Midge who also told me about the Waipio Valley Shuttle, a four-wheel drive tour of the valley where you see 1,200 foot waterfalls, roaming wild horses and taro fields.

From the Waipio Valley, I made my way to the Waikoloa resort area where recent episodes of “The Real Housewives of Beverly Hills” were filmed at the Marriott Beach Resort. The housewives were on island for the wedding of Camille Grammar, who owns a home in one of the elite private communities in the area. Across from the Marriott are the King’s Shops, featuring restaurants and retail on a man-made lake. I couldn’t resist a Tommy Bahama silk aloha shirt that is exclusive to the islands and is new to the collection—it features vibrant sunset colors, palm trees and a giant hula dancer embroidered on the back.

The most expensive resort on the island is the exclusive Four Seasons Hualalai. I made it there just in time to watch the sun setting over the resort and disappearing into the ocean on the horizon. The Beachtree restaurant on the water’s edge features live Hawaiian musicians and a menu of fresh seafood, pizza and burgers.

On Sunday afternoon before heading home, I visited the Hulihe’e Palace. Located across the street from Mokuaikaua Church, on the scenic Kailua Bay’s shoreline, this is one of the most important historic structures in Kailua. Built in the 1800’s for Hawaiian royalty, it is today a fascinating museum dedicated to preserving Hawaii’s unique cultural heritage.

I walked to the opposite end of Alii Drive to the Royal Kona Resort featuring Don The Beachcomber Restaurant, which claims to be the home of the original mai tai. The waves crash against the sea wall at the ocean front restaurant and lounge, where you can enjoy pizzas, fish and chips and burgers.

After lunch it was time to head to the airport and return to Oahu, just as it started to rain. With each island offering its own unique flavor and vibe, I am getting used to island hopping as a way of playing tourist and enjoying a change of surroundings in this island paradise in the middle of the pacific, which I’m now fortunate to call home.