New Orleans remains one of my all-time favorite destinations. I’ve been returning regularly for over 20 years. Spring seems to be one of the most pleasant times to visit in terms of weather, and my long-time friend Sena Mourad-Friedman and I visited during French Quarter Fest in April.
This festival has charmed New Orleanians since it first began in 1984, designed to remind locals how fabulous and fun the French Quarter can be. Stages are set up throughout the French Quarter, food from the city’s finest restaurants fills booths in Jackson Square and all along the river in Woldenberg Riverfront Park. It was a secret for a while, rewarding tourists who happened to be in town anyway the second weekend in April. Now this grand fete has evolved into something everyone adores – visitors and locals alike.
Bring your appetite to the festival’s signature event, the “world’s largest jazz brunch” in Woldenberg Riverfront Park, Jackson Square and nearby — a tantalizing spread of beverages and specialty items from some of the best known restaurants in the Crescent City. Sample Pat O’Brien’s Hurricanes, Barbecue Oysters from Red Fish Grill, Prime Rib Po-boy from the Rib Room, Baked Alaska from Antoine’s, Shrimp Remoulade from Galatoire’s and Oysters Rockefeller from Desire Oyster Bar. You can’t try all the restaurants individually during one trip to New Orleans, but you can try a lot of them during this weekend. There’s jambalaya, blackened catfish po-boys, crawfish étouffée, Cajun meat pies, deep fried cupcakes, white chocolate bread pudding and more. More than 60 food and beverage booths are scattered throughout the historic French Quarter and the riverfront. All dishes are priced to sample and savor. Where else can you order Baked Alaska with chocolate sauce at an outdoor food stand?
2018 marks the 35th anniversary of the festival, and the 300th anniversary of the city. To celebrate, there were nearly two dozen stages rocking the French Quarter and surrounding areas throughout the four-day weekend, starting early in the day and going on through the night. Unfortunately, the festival was rained out on Saturday as we were awakened to tornado warnings followed by torrential downpours resulting in flash flooding. New Orleans is shaped like a bowl and since it’s below sea level, when the rains come, the bowl fills up with water.
The 2018 French Quarter Festival featured stages on nearly every corner highlighting 300 Louisiana acts throughout the weekend. The festival is the largest showcase of Louisiana music in the world and boasts samplings of some of the world’s finest and most unique culinary creations.
Speaking of food, our time in the Crescent City was limited and our restaurant goals ambitious. We managed to visit some of the very best offerings in this culinary Mecca: Café Amelie, Irene’s, Antoine’s, Broussard’s, Palace Café, Galatoire’s and the crown jewel, Commander’s Palace.
We arrived on Friday the 13th, which my late friend Mary Lou always considered lucky. “LuLu,” as she was affectionately known, loved to spend time playing the Blazing 7’s slot machines at Harrah’s New Orleans so we tried our luck on the supposedly lucky day in her honor but the house prevailed. It costs a lot of money to build casinos.
Friday the 13th may not have proven lucky for gambling, but we were blessed with a glorious 80-degree breezy day full of sunshine. We strolled from the JW Marriott, our home away from home, to Café Amelie, all the while taking in the glorious art galleries and antique shops along Rue Royal, my favorite street in the French Quarter, as street musicians offered a vibrant soundtrack.
Founded in 2005, Café Amelie was named for Amelie Miltonberger, the mother of Princess Alice, the first American Princess of Monaco, who lived in an accompanying townhouse in the mid-1800s. Nestled in the historic 150-year-old Princess of Monaco Courtyard and Carriage House on Royal Street in the French Quarter, Café Amelie is a rare combination of superb Louisiana fare served in a lush, enchanting New Orleans courtyard setting.
Café Amelie quickly became a favorite of New Orleans locals and tourists alike, who faithfully flock to the café for its delicious food and refreshing cocktails. Café Amelie is known for having one of the most beautiful and romantic courtyards in the Quarter, where patrons can dine al fresco or inside the lovely air-conditioned dining rooms within the historic Carriage House. We enjoyed cochon de lait and ahi tuna in the fresh air on this magnificently cheerful day and overheard the sounds of live musicians from the street outside the entrance floating through the air like the rays of sunshine filtering through the porous clouds.
We took a respite from our stroll through the Quarter at the Orleans Grapevine, which is managed by the lovely Carrie Ann—a Toledo transplant and long-time friend. Carrie visited with us for about an hour as we quenched our thirst with San Pellegrino and people watched from the sidewalk tables.
Another long-time favorite of locals and tourists alike is Irene’s. I’ve being going to Irene’s for over 20 years. In fact, it was at Irene’s that I dined the night Princess Diana died. Our waiter was from Wales and announced to our table in a fine British accent, “The Princess is dead.” We stopped eating and ordered a bottle of champagne to toast her legacy.
Once the French Quarter’s underground secret, Irene’s Cuisine has emerged over the years as one of the area’s most desired and endearing dining spots. At first, people spoke of it in whispers, as though it was just “our little secret” but then passers-by couldn’t miss the crowds waiting out in the street for tables, and certainly not the garlic and rosemary aromas wafting out into the street from the kitchen’s fans.
Since its opening in 1993, Irene’s has remained one of the hottest tickets in town. How owner Irene DiPietro, a baby boomer from a little town in southern Sicily, came to dazzle the palates of the French Quarter’s jaded souls and create an enticing, enchanting setting that is both intimate and homey, is certainly fodder for dining out fanatics.
Irene’s recently relocated from its long-time home at the corner of St. Philip and Chartres to a new location at 529 Bienville. The move was prompted when the Louisiana State Museum, which owns the building rented by Irene’s, decided not to renew the lease claiming the rent was below market rate and the museum couldn’t risk its precious archives stored above the open flames of a restaurant kitchen.
I was pleasantly receptive to the new location of Irene’s. Sometimes in life, something good comes apart in order for something even better to emerge. The food was just as superb as it has always been and the intimacy of the front dining room at the original location has been replicated in a series of three small dining rooms at the new location. Our dining room featured red walls with mirrors and a fireplace with an antique marble clock on the mantle. In the back is a large lounge area with the original piano. The owner’s son and executive chef hand carved the massive wooden bar which is a masterpiece of craftsmanship.
Our waitress, Denise, was both charming and entertaining. After dinner, she took us on a grand tour of the new and improved Irene’s, which featured an altar to St. Joseph in a private back room that was recently blessed by local clergy who dined al fresco in full regalia with pomp and circumstance in the courtyard that isn’t yet open to the public.
We began with the house tomato garlic bread. Sena ordered escargots and I enjoyed the paneed oysters with grilled shrimp, and we shared a melt-in-your-mouth Bibb lettuce salad accented with a walnut-vinaigrette. Sena broke her meat-free diet to savor the lamb chops.
When Denise described the grouper special that was pan seared, topped with jumbo lump crab, hollandaise sauce and asparagus, I commented, “That sounds scrumptious.” She quipped, “Just like you.” It’s this kind of harmless flirtation that makes New Orleans so charming and enchanting. You can’t help but fall in love.
Thankfully we walked over 11 miles just in the first couple of days, which helped offset the caloric intake. The lack of guilt led us to Antoine’s for lunch. They are known for their three-course lunch offered for the same price as the year—$20.18. Some patrons also enjoy the 25-cent cocktail of the day (there’s a limit of three per person).
Antoine’s Restaurant has a 176 year-old legacy as the longest-running family owned restaurant in America. The restaurant is still owned and operated by fifth generation relatives of the original founder, Antoine Alciatore.
The world-renowned French-Creole cuisine, impeccable service and unique atmosphere have combined to create an unmatched dining experience in New Orleans since 1840. Antoine’s 14 dining rooms each have a unique history and charm, and historical photos featuring the balls of past Mardi Gras Krewes offer a glimpse into the rich history of this magnificent city beneath the sea.
Veteran, seasoned and professional waiter Chuck made recommendations and served us a delightful lunch. My shrimp and crawfish over grits was mouthwatering, and Sena raved about her vegetarian special consisting of a variety of vegetables in a creole tomato sauce served with rice. I cheated on my carb-free diet as we split an order of Pommes de Terre Soufflées, the classic Antoine’s fried puffed potatoes served with a side of sauce Bernaise for dipping. “Y’all can use your fingers for the potatoes,” Chuck reassured us.
In between sessions for the International Fundraising Conference that Sena and I were attending at the Ernest N. Morial Convention Center—a monstrous concrete complex along the Mississippi—we managed to squeeze in Sunday Jazz Brunch at the Palace Café, part of the Brennan family of restaurants. This classic New Orleans restaurant, located at the foot of the French Quarter, serves contemporary Creole food in an upbeat and lively grand café. As bearers of the torch keeping Creole cuisine alive and vital, Dickie Brennan and Palace Café’s culinary team are constantly evolving traditional Creole dishes and creating a few new favorites.
The restaurant, housed in the historic Werlein’s music building, has won a number of local and national awards since it opened in 1991 including Best New Restaurant from Esquire Magazine and USA Today, the prestigious Ivy Award from Restaurants and Institutions Magazine, and Wine Spectator’s Award of Excellence.
Featuring live music, the Sunday Jazz Brunch offers an intriguing and appealing bounty of a la carte choices, like the Café Eggs Benedict— composed of pork debris, poached eggs, cheddar biscuits, tasso, and hollandaise. Sena had hers with shrimp. We enjoyed the strolling musicians who added to the ambience of the bustling brunch crowd.
We were the guests of long-time friends and Toledo transplants Ron and Laura Blackburn at Broussard’s for a meaningful Sunday dinner comprised of laughing, reminiscing and catching up. You can tell we’re all grown up for in the old days it would have been smoking, drinking and carrying on. I’ve known Ron and Laura for over 20 years and have spent holidays with their families. It’s like the song, “You Can’t Make Old Friends.”
Broussard’s first opened its doors in 1920, after an eminent local chef named Joseph Broussard married Rosalie, of the prominent Borrello bloodline. The couple moved into the early 19th century Borrello Mansion on Conti Street, where the restaurant now stands. At his restaurant, Joseph Broussard combined the excitement of local Creole cuisine with classic culinary dishes inspired by his formal Parisian culinary training. The result was a dynamic menu set to the highest of standards.
Because of the restaurant’s unique imperial décor, fantastic food and incomparable ambiance, Broussard’s has served as a vibrant cultural assembly place, where many famous guests have gathered and an array of exciting events have taken place. Hollywood celebrities, politicians, dignitaries, Mardi Gras Royalty and literary figures such as Tennessee Williams and William Faulkner have all played a role in the history of Broussard’s. They have an exquisite courtyard that was reserved for a private party the night of our visit.
We all enjoyed the Rockefeller Salad, composed of crispy oysters, baby spinach, herbsaint dressing, chopped egg, and shaved red onion. Sena and I both had Pompano, one almandine style and one Pontchartrain style with a Creole tomato glaze and grilled shrimp. The shrimp in New Orleans have such a unique flavor due to the mix of fresh water from the Mississippi River and Lake Ponchartrain with the saltwater from the Gulf of Mexico. Ron enjoyed the drum fish Bonaparte style with shrimp and crawfish dressing. Laura savored the filet. Everything was scrumptious. Ron and I indulged in Banana’s Foster, flambeed table-side.
The crown jewel of New Orleans’ restaurant legacy is arguably the world-renowned Commander’s Palace. Commander’s Palace, nestled in the middle of the tree-lined Garden District, has been a New Orleans landmark since 1893.
Known for the award-winning quality of its food and its convivial atmosphere, the history of this famous restaurant offers a glimpse into New Orleans’ storied past and has been the go-to destination for Haute Creole cuisine and whimsical Louisiana charm. The winner of six James Beard Foundation Awards, Commander’s Palace has evolved into a culinary legend.
When Ella, Dottie, Dick and John Brennan took over personal supervision of the restaurant in 1974, they began to give the splendid old landmark a new look both inside and out including painting the outside the iconic “Commander’s Blue.” Now under the watchful eye of co-proprietors Ti Adelaide Martin and Lally Brennan, the Brennan family’s dedication to perfection has never wavered.
A steady parade of renowned chefs like Emeril Lagasse, Paul Prudhomme, Jamie Shannon, and now Tory McPhail have made Commander’s Palace the world-class restaurant that it is today and its leading-edge Haute Creole cuisine reflects the best of the city.
Sena, Laura and I were joined by Jim and Barbara Poure, who divide their time between Toledo and Naples, for a scrumptious dinner at Commander’s. Barbara was also in town for the International Fundraising Conference, and she is one of only 111 Advanced Certified Fund Raising Executives in the world. As a matter of fact, Toledo has more ACFRE’s than any other city in the world—five.
We had various appetizers, including an heirloom tomato salad, soup du jour, Caesar salad, and my favorite—buttermilk gnocchi topped with crawfish and peas swimming in a cream sauce. The cream sauce carried over to the cream corn that decorated the plate under the sheepshead fish that was topped with crab and savory pecans, which I devoured. Laura enjoyed the filet, while Sena had a special vegetarian offering that featured eggplant. Barbara and Jim had the sea bass topped with crawfish and accompanied by haricot verts. A fruit plate, berries with fresh whipped cream and pecan pie rounded out the lovely evening filled with laughter. Laura drove Sena and I back to the hotel and left Barbara and Jim off to disappear into the night at the Maison Bourbon on Bourbon Street—one of the few remaining establishments to offer nightly traditional New Orleans jazz musicians—master craftsmen—performing live.
Our last supper was actually a lunch, which we enjoyed immensely with another Toledo transplant, Lisa Lynn at Galatoire’s—a legend that is a long-remaining staple of the NOLA social and political scene. Lisa Lynn first moved to New Orleans in 1995 to pursue a Master of Fine Arts degree at the University of New Orleans. That year, for Thanksgiving, a few of us made a road trip from Toledo to New Orleans to visit Lisa Lynn. That was my first ever journey to The Big Easy, and I’ve been returning regularly ever since.
Lisa Lynn is now something of a French Quarter legend, serving as bar matron at Harry’s Corner and performing the occasional singing gig in the Quarter. A talented songstress, she has recorded several CD’s and can be found on iTunes. She is a past performer at the French Quarter Fest.
Founded in 1905 by Jean Galatoire, this infamous address distinguished itself on Bourbon St. from its humble beginning. From the small village of Pardies, France, Jean Galatoire brought recipes and traditions inspired by the familial dining style of his homeland to create the menu and ambiance of the internationally-renowned restaurant.
In its fifth generation, it is the Galatoire family and descendants who have carried the tradition of New Orleans’ fine dining restaurants and influenced its evolution. The restaurant’s culinary customs and reservation statutes have been preserved with little change throughout the decades. Consistency has been the greatest asset that Galatoire’s has displayed for more than a century.
Laura and I once took my tiny teacup Yorkie LuLu to lunch at Galatoire’s on a Friday, which is the most popular day for locals to lunch. As LuLu sat propped on a pillow at the table, eating salad, fellow patrons sang Happy Birthday to a 90 year old at a nearby table while everyone else around the place was carrying on as if each table was a microcosm. Combined, the noise can be a bit overwhelming but the energy is both eclectic and electric. Think pearls, hats and seersucker. A boozy mix of eccentricities.
On this particular lunch visit, a waiter brought the loud dining room to a hush when he clinked a spoon against a water glass and proceeded to request everyone to sing “Happy Birthday” to a patron named Daniel. We all obliged and paused from lunch to join in the festive chorus. Sena remarked, “I want to come back here to celebrate my birthday!” This is true N’awlins culture, which is big on celebration. I am convinced they have a parade every time someone sneezes.
After an appetizer platter composed of Oysters en Brouchette, crabmeat maison, shrimp Remoulade, and crawfish maison, we anxiously awaited the arrival of our entrees as we savored the last crumbs of French baguette. Because New Orleans is below sea level, certain adjustments need to be made to the bread recipes, and the result is some of the most magnificent bread in the world both in texture and taste. Lisa Lynn enjoyed the crabmeat Yvonne while I relished the shrimp Clemenceau with garlic, mushrooms, peas and cubed potatoes. Sena savored a Creole vegetarian dish featuring zucchini and green beans over rice.
Thankfully I walked over 30 miles during the time I was in NOLA, which helped to burn off all the calories. It’s nearly impossible not to indulge in all of the great restaurants as well as the more simple pleasures like po-boys, Zapp’s potato chips, muffuletta sandwiches from Central Grocery, Jackson Square chocolates and pralines from Southern Candymakers and New Orleans Ice Cream Company ice cream—bananas foster is my favorite flavor, with Creole cream cheese coming in a close second.
The best memories in life are centered around travel and food combined with the people and places we love. New Orleans celebrates the joys of life—food, fun, and laughter. It’s a timeless international destination—truly a world class city—rich in both culture and cultural diversity like no other. New Orleans is second only to Philadelphia in terms of American cities with the most French influence—in the food, architecture, and culture. If Europe isn’t in your budget, consider a trip to New Orleans. It’s the closest thing America has to Europe. It’s also the perfect setting to enjoy with old friends and to make new acquaintances. Laissez les bons temps rouler!
After we disembarked from the over-sized dinghy, we breathed a sigh of relief and made our way through the charming old town of Lahaina, which reminded us of New England. Lahaina is a location that is experienced by two million people, or approximately 80% percent of all of Maui tourism per year. Lahaina has over a thousand years of rich history, and was the capital of the Kingdom of Hawaii from 1820 to 1845. From beaches to restaurants, Lahaina has some of the best attractions Maui has to offer.
We began our sojourn in the North Shore surfing town of Paia, where we ordered delicious sandwiches for the road from The Hana Picnic Lunch Co., which also offers espresso drinks and gelato. Wanting to save my sandwich for later on in the journey, I walked down the road to Paia Bowls and ordered an açaí bowl for breakfast, topped with cocoa nuggets, strawberries, bananas, honey, almond butter and coconut. I became addicted to açaí bowls during this visit to Hawaii.
Not only is it important to pack snacks and drinks to fuel your body for the long journey (there are limited roadside stands along the Road to Hana), it is equally important to fill your gas tank before starting out. When we finally reached Hana a few hours after our adventure began, we paid $5.75 a gallon to fill up at a two-pump service station.
Our next stop along the way was Keanae Peninsula. Keep a lookout for the sign for the Keanae Aroboretum. Shortly after you pass it, you’ll take a left at the Keanae sign, which will lead to Keanae Peninsula. As the Road descends, you’ll see a flat area of land and some taro beds and a beautiful old church. Get out of the car and explore the sublime shoreline featuring enormous black lava rock formations emerging from the rough sea. It’s magical!
From Keanae Peninsula, we made our way along the snaking road to Waianapanapa State Park. Just before you reach the town of Hana and a little past Mile Marker 32, Waianapanapa is one of the most special places on Maui. This small family-run recreational and camping area offers incredible views, pounding surf, a blowhole (that wasn’t active the day we visited) and a pebbly black sand beach. There are a plethora of hiking trails and caves.
When you finally get to Hana you realize that the experience is all about the journey — not the destination. There isn’t much in Hana except for a hotel, general store, restaurant and gas station.
After a short hike along the Seven Sacred Pools we made the reverse trek back winding along cliffs that I was happy I couldn’t see in the dark. While Sam grew more and more car sick from driving in the rain all the way back along the curving roads, I enjoyed the exhilarating rush from the passenger seat as we listened to 94.3 with the windows down. KDLX FM is a current music intensive station with hits by Kesha, Rhianna, Pharrell, Lady Gaga, Bruno Mars, Usher and Katy Perry, offering music for the 21st century all delivered in an upbeat mass appeal presentation. It seemed to be the perfect soundtrack for the drive as the beats synchronized with the back and forth rhythm of the bends in the Road to Hana.
After Oprah failed to invite us in for lunch, we made our way to Haleakala National Park. Every year, more than a million tourists visit Haleakala National Park, home to the world’s largest dormant volcano. The entire park occupies 30,000 acres of land in Upcountry Maui, though most visitors focus on a few specific areas of the park. Of course, there’s the mountain: Haleakala’s summit stands more than 10,000 feet above sea level (in fact, you can see it from any point on the island). Travelers recommend planning your visit to the summit in the morning to see the sunrise (keep in mind you’ll have to make reservations online in advance and you’ll be required to pay a small fee). A fairly winding road (Route 378) will lead you to the top. The drive ascending through the rain clouds was almost more nerve wracking than the Road to Hana. No matter when you visit, be sure to wear warm layers. The air up top is thin and chilly.
From Haleakala National Park, we descended from the mountain and headed back to Paia for our last evening of strolling, shopping (don’t miss Alice in Hulaland for unique and amusing souvenirs) and sipping lattes before heading to nyloS for dinner.
AT nyloS, we experienced an amazing Maui finale featuring modern gastronomy by extraordinarily talented chef/owner Jeremy Solyn and his wife, Paulina. Jeremy is from my the same neighborhood in my hometown of Youngstown, Ohio and is a fellow Liberty High School alum.
It was the perfect ending to a memorable escapade on Maui. Not to be outdone by man-made experiences, Mother Nature seemed to have the final blessing as she smiled with a breathtaking sunset painted across the sky above the mountains. Mahalo to magical Maui for your hospitality. A hui hou.
As many of you will recall from previous blogs, my handsome and entertaining partner, Sam Yoder and his beautiful and endearing Mom, Geri, have a house in Mililani and we have a wonderful and charming ohana (family) of aunties, uncles and cousins on the island known as “The Gathering Place.” This is a blessing that none of us takes for granted. Life is, after all, short, and no one is promised tomorrow. Spending time with loved ones is the best gift you can give to them and to yourself.
A highlight was Christmas Eve spent with our engaging and uplifting friend, Keri Hall and her delightful daughter, Hannah—California transplants from Ohio. We joined Keri’s parents at d.k. Steakhouse at the Marriott Waikiki for a scrumptious meal of steaks and seafood. Unfortunately the restaurant ran out of their famous Mud Pie dessert, which takes a few days to concoct, but on the bright side, it spared us some unnecessary calories.
We saw paragliders taking off right before our very eyes from the treacherous cliffs at Makapu’u! We also had the blessing to witness a double rainbow and something I had never seen before—the sublime formation of a rainbow underneath the clouds extending down from the sky to the ocean. We also watched adventurous tourists and locals plunge from the tops of the cliffs at Spitting Caves down into the swirling waters of the Pacific.
On Christmas Day, Sam and I, along with his cousin, Anna and her daughter Kaylin, visited Lanikai Beach where we enjoyed an afternoon in the sun. Many others had the same idea which made for a crowd with challenging parking but we enjoyed looking at the snowmen made of sand. We laughed as we got photo-bombed by a Golden Retriever. After the beach, we returned to have dinner with the rest of the family in Kaneohe, including Uncle Lionel and Auntie Bobbi, Auntie Dorothy, cousins Keana and Braddah and Tricia and Darren and Rysie and Mike as well as Anna’s husband Darryl, cousin Brandi, cousins Brittney and Shane and their son, Kaeo as well as Kaylin’s boyfriend, Elliott. Brittney made my day when I gave her the Shaka sign and she said I looked just like a Kanaka (native). The Shaka sign, sometimes known as “hang loose” by outsiders, is a gesture of friendly intent often associated with Hawaii and surf culture.
We over-indulged in a Christmas dinner combination of Honey Baked ham and turkey, along with Japanese and Portuguese delicacies—both savory and sweet, including butter mochi (a sweet rice dessert). Counting calories is never an option in Hawaii. The food is too good to resist. We devoured all of my favorites, including many local features from Zippy’s, which is a chain restaurant/bakery. I particularly love their island Mac salad, Somen salad (with Japanese noodles) and the lilikoi (passion fruit) cream cheese squares. Sam swears by the Korean fried chicken. Our neighbor, Auntie June, once again made lumpia, which is a Filipino take on the Chinese egg roll—longer and stuffed with beef, garlic, been sprouts, cabbage and carrots. I peeled the lumpia wrappers; Sam stuffed and rolled them; and Auntie June fried them. We had our own efficient system and joked that we could make 500 a week and sell them at the Swap Meet. Geri made Spam fried rice; Sam fried us Portuguese sausage; and I made breakfast frittata. The chocolate-dipped shortbread cookies from the Cookie Corner are irresistible as is the Choco Mochi manufactured by Island Princess. Choco Mochi is a salty, savory, sweet and crunchy combination. The special rich milk chocolate covers crunchy Japanese rice crackers that are also known as Arare or Kaki Mochi crackers. My colleagues at work requested that I bring plenty back to them to satiate their cravings. The stuff is that addictive.
In addition to eating, hiking and beaching, we also did some shopping at Macy’s and the outlets at Waikele and worked around the house, especially during the first week which was demonstrative of the rainy season. We lined the trim of the house and landscape with multi-colored Christmas lights and made Reese’s Temptation cookies as well as toffee candy. The day after Christmas, it rained non-stop all day and night, breaking records for the amount of rainfall. Honolulu recorded a new daily rainfall record — 2.7 inches — beating the previous record of 2.09 inches on the same day in 1992, according to the National Weather Service. Even the Honolulu Zoo had to close.
We ate in many great restaurants, including the Haleiwa Beach House where we savored Kalua Pork grilled cheese sandwiches and Kua Aina Sandwhich Shop for burgers. We scarfed down Pineapple Whip at the Dole Plantation. Sam and I like ours sprinkled with li hing mui, a powder of salty dried plum—a sweet and salty combination that complements the pineapple. Not to be missed, of course, is Duke’s Waikiki at the Outrigger Hotel. Their Hula Pie dessert is world famous.
Another irresistible discovery this trip was chocolate macadamia nut ice cream made by Roselani. In 1932 at the Maui Soda & Ice Works plant in Wailuku, Maui, Manuel Nobriga began making ice cream from scratch for local ice cream parlors. Everyone loved the velvety smooth texture and the richness of his flavors and the business grew to eventually include half-gallon cartons that folks could enjoy at home. Four decades later in 1970, Manuel’s son, David “Buddy” Nobriga, gave ice cream a fitting Maui name — Roselani. Today, third generation ice cream maker Cathy Nobriga Kim continues the family tradition, adding innovative island flavors to old-time favorites.
The 73-year-old entertainer did not disappoint. Her enormous hair and outrageous costumes delighted the audience, whose enthusiasm resulted in an unprecedented third encore during which the diva gave an impromptu performance of “Endless Love” after taking questions from the audience. The Detroit native sang all of her famous hit songs, from her early days with The Supremes through her movies and onto disco and pop favorites. Her voice is still perfection.
After the mayhem subsided, it gave me time to reflect on the significance of this momentous experience. Melding our families together through love and making memories is what life is all about and is reflective of the Aloha Spirit that is the essence of the magic that is Hawaii. Indulging in exceptional foods and laughing until your cheeks hurt is a magnificent and nurturing component of the human experience. To do all of this in a place that is Heaven on Earth is a blessing I will never forget. Mahalo to everyone who made this adventure possible.
Beloved South Congress Avenue (So Co) boasts a plethora of restaurants and shops. Locals recommended we try Perla’s for brunch. Perla’s was founded in the Spring of 2009 by chefs Larry McGuire and Tom Moorman Jr. with the goal of establishing a great oyster bar and seafood joint. Perla’s offers fresh fish and oysters flown in daily from both coasts with an emphasis on sourcing from the Gulf of Mexico and simple, clean preparations.
Austin has mild winters and very hot, humid summers that make some outdoor activities inadvisable. Late October proved to be unseasonably chilly and windy but at least the sun was shining.
We visited San Marcos Premium Outlets, an outdoor shopping mecca offering an impressive collection of 145 luxury and name brand stores including designer fashions for men, women and children, sportswear, shoes, jewelry, housewares and more. The shopping mall features outlet stores that cannot be found anywhere else within the sate of Texas. Shop exclusive brands such as Gucci, Burberry, Armani and Prada. There’s even a Starbucks for a caffeine boost to bolster your power shopping.
Austin is, in a lot of ways, the heart of Texas, celebrating Texan culture and history, as well as the uniqueness of the state, from its origins as a Mexican territory to its independence and, finally, to its incorporation into the U.S. If you want to experience a little bit of Texas—and a little bit of Americana in the process—Austin is your next stop. Whether you want to try some Tex-Mex cuisine, indulge in outdoor activities, listen to live music, visit Native American monuments or learn more about people from Austin and its surrounding areas, the city is all too happy to oblige.
For this journey, we loaded up the Newmar Essex with four dogs, five adults, plenty of snacks and the world’s largest dog stroller. We also bought a Starbucks machine for the bus, so I served as the barista. This is an enjoyable and comfortable way to travel, but it’s still a long trek—about 15 hours from Toledo to the city beneath the sea. Thankfully, my partner Sam Yoder is a pro at driving us. In fact, he wanted to drive straight through, but his Mom Geri and I pleaded for an overnight respite outside Birmingham, Alabama.
We parked the motor home at the French Quarter RV Resort, which is gated, clean and well-kept with pavers instead of grass. Some campsites even feature gazebos. Many entertainers park their tour buses there when they are in town. Located adjacent to a cemetery and next to an overpass, the neighborhood is questionable, but then again, crime is a way of life in New Orleans. We parked under a giant billboard and prayed no one could climb over the cement wall with metal spikes.
Other dining delights during this visit included Café Amelie (where the courtyard makes you feel like you’re in Paris) and Arnaud’s Remoulade. The cochon de lait sandwich is a favorite at Amelie, while Remoulade offers all the NOLA favorites, like gumbo and jambalaya. Geri loved the red beans and rice with fried catfish; Sam swore by the sauce on the baby back ribs; and our friend Candy Corbett savored the shrimp bisque. Don’t pass up the Shrimp Arnaud’s with a house-made Remoulade sauce, and the fried shrimp po boy is also delightful—dressed, of course. We also enjoyed espresso drinks from Antoine’s Annex, along with overstuffed breakfast croissant sandwiches.
Strolling the French Quarter, we visited ChiwawaGaga for dog clothes and crossed Decatur to the French Market, indulging in sweets from Southern Candymakers, where I always send a box of Rocky River Road to my Mom. The Jackson Squares are not be missed. They’re thick bars of chocolate stuffed with peanut butter, caramel and rice crispies. They are always making fresh pralines and offer free samples. We passed Café DuMonde, watching them make beignets through the windows and posed for a photo in front of St. Louis Cathedral at Jackson Square on a gloriously warm fall day with bright blue skies and plenty of southern sunshine. Be sure to visit the back of the cathedral at night to see the famous “Touchdown Jesus,” the shadow reflected by a spotlight shone upon a Jesus statue with arms raised triumphantly.
We thoroughly enjoyed a visit to the Ritz-Carlton to hear Jeremy Davenport play the trumpet and sing with his quartet and even had the chance to meet him. A late night rendezvous at Rouse’s on Royal resulted in $80 spent on Zapp’s potato chips and New Orleans Ice Cream Company ice cream. The Banana’s Foster flavor (made famous by Brennan’s) was the favorite of our group of taste testers. On the way out of town, we stopped at Central Grocery on Decatur to pick up the original mufaletta sandwich.
From New Orleans, we made our way to Natchitoches, a small city and the parish seat of Natchitoches Parish, Louisiana. Established in 1714 by Louis Juchereau de St. Denis as part of French Louisiana, the community was named after the indigenous Natchitoches people.
From there it was on to Zwolle for Geri’s best friend Nannette Martinez’s 75th birthday party. We parked the RV at Nannette’s sprawling lake house with extravagant outdoor kitchen that is more like an entertainment event center. Her Spanish style “cottage” is stuccoed in a mauve tint and built on a peninsula on the Toledo Bend Reservoir, which is a man-made lake on the Sabine River between Texas and Louisiana. The lake has an area of 185,000 acres, the largest man-made body of water in Texas, the largest in the South, and the fifth largest in the United States. Nannette’s grandfather owned 180 acres before the dam was released to flood the reservoir when he lost 100 acres to the state of Louisiana. Nannette’s vacation home is on the family’s property, and her daughter Missy is building next door.
The party was at the Wildwood Resort, featuring 38 cabins on Toledo Bend Lake and event facilities. Whether you are taking advantage of the spectacular fishing and boating on Toledo Bend Lake, hosting a special event, planning a family reunion or holding a business/corporate meeting or retreat, Wildwood can work with you to make sure your stay at the resort is a complete success. Nannette’s party was definitely a success and memories were forged in celebration of her special milestone birthday.
We thoroughly enjoyed our visit to the Pelican State. Louisiana’s history as a melting pot of French, African, American and French-Canadian cultures is reflected in its Creole and Cajun cultures. Good food and warm people are the highlights of travel, and Louisiana is known for exceptional examples of both.
Ralph Lauren Bar and Grill, along the Magnificent Mile, is a must-visit for me every time I go to Chicago. The service and food is always extraordinary. The only disappointment is that in all of the times I’ve dined there—even al fresco—I’ve never seen Ralph or Oprah. Supposedly, it’s Ms. O’s fave. It’s mine, too. I opted for my usual veal Milanese, which is a veal chop pounded thin, breaded and pan fried. It comes with a refreshing arugula salad on the side and half a lemon to add extra zip. It’s to die for. Unfortunately, RL no longer offers my go-to dessert—a rich but heavenly chocolate ganache torte to which I add a scoop of vanilla gelato. This time I had the decadent homemade walnut brownie, served warm with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and chocolate garnish. The waiter bathes the sundae in hot fudge table side. Eat here and diet home.
I scored a front row center orchestra seat for the Friday evening performance of the touring production of Broadways’ Aladdin. Disney’s blockbuster Broadway musical is heading out on its first ever national tour, and what better venue to kick it off than Chicago’s Cadillac Palace Theatre! Based on the classic animated movie from 1992, the story follows the lovable street urchin Aladdin, who must defeat the evil sorcerer Jafar, while trying to win the heart of the Princess Jasmine. As everyone’s child knows, he’s helped along the way by the larger than life Genie.
Lin-Manuel Miranda is the creative force behind the Broadway sensation Hamilton, which is also playing in Chicago, San Francisco, and London. The national tour begins next year. I took in the Saturday matinee. This was my second time seeing this revolutionary show. The first time was back in February when I won a $10 box seat through the ticket lottery, which you can enter online through the web site or “there’s an app for that,” of course.
Don’t forget your Garrett’s popcorn on the way out. A Chicago tradition since 1949, be sure to try the Garrett Mix, which combines sweet CaramelCrisp with savory CheeseCorn. There’s a location at the airport, which makes it convenient to purchase some for gifts and some for snacks on the flight home.
While Chicago is a world class tourist destination on Lake Michigan that offers a plethora of cultural amenities, like shopping, dining, theatre and museums, the city is not without its share of challenges. Much like the lead characters in Aladdin and Hamilton, Chicago is a diamond in the rough. As we learned during our training, affordable housing units are being demolished and removed. They are being replaced with expensive, luxury options that result in many working class, poor and minority individuals and families being displaced. There’s also a homelessness problem, like many urban areas of our country. Chicago is also a notorious crime capital. It will take all facets of the market—corporate, non-profit and government—to create viable solutions to these challenges in order for the Windy City to be one of America’s sustainable and equitable urban meccas.
We also experienced the Sandbar. On the windward side of Oahu, this natural formation can be found at the center of reef-protected Kaneohe Bay. The sandbar and its surrounding coral reefs are perfect for snorkeling, playing beach volleyball, having a picnic lunch and especially for enjoying panoramic views of the spectacular Koolau Mountains and nearby islets. Depending on the tide, it can be covered with waist-high water or completely exposed, making a small beach. The sandbar is almost a mile away from shore, so you’ll need a boat or kayak to get there. Captain Elliot (Sam’s cousin Kaylin’s boyfriend) took us to the sandbar on his fishing boat.
Afterward we joined the family—Auntie Bobbi and Uncle Lionel, cousins Darryl and Anna, Keana and Braddah, Darren and Tricia, Kaylin, Ryse, Brandi, and Brittney and Shane with their son, Kaeo along with 97-years-young Auntie Dorothy who always brings her feisty appetite. We celebrated Sam’s birthday with dinner, including chicken and pork katsu, spare ribs, stir fry, fried saimin, gauji, and potato mac salad. In addition to a Chantilly birthday cake, we also enjoyed homemade chocolate cake and the famous island tradition of banana pie from Flamingo Bakery.
We shared many meals and made countless memories with the ohana. Other out of town family visiting for the wedding included Auntie Betsy and Uncle Jim as well as cousin Lynnel, all from California, and also the bride’s Mom, Yvette, who traveled from the ninth island—Las Vegas. We enjoyed breakfast at our favorite—the local chain diner and bakery, Zippy’s—with Geri’s brother Gary and wife LaDawn.
On this trip, I finally visited Iolani Palace, a living restoration of a proud Hawaiian national identity that is recognized as the spiritual and physical multicultural epicenter of Hawaii. Built in 1882 by King Kalakaua, Iolani Palace was the home of Hawaii’s last reigning monarchs and served as the official royal residence and the headquarters of the Kingdom’s political and social life until the overthrow of the monarchy in 1893. Of particular impression is the fact that the palace can boast that it had electricity before the White House and Buckingham Palace.
Eating like royalty is pretty easy to do in this island paradise. The local foods are plentiful and tempting and also feature a wide-range of cultural and enthic influences from around the world. From the island-style Mac salad to spam musubi, from chicken katsu to hamburger steak, from saimin to spam fried rice and from Portuguese sausage to sushi, most everything comes with a side of rice. My new favorite is the Somen salad at Zippy’s. The salad features somen noodles on a bed of fresh tossed salad tapped with ham, fish cake, cucumber, green onions and topped with a ginger sesame dressing. Local sweets to indulge include shave ice, malasadas (Portuguese donuts), mochi (Japanese rice cake), and my personal favorite, lilikoi cream cheese squares (from Zippy’s Napoleon Bakery). The Cookie Corner is also difficult to resist. Be sure to try the chocolate-dipped shortbread cookies.
What fun we had making lumpias at home with our neighbor, Auntie June. Lumpia is a spring roll of Chinese origin commonly found in Indonesia and the Philippines. It is a savory snack made of thin crepe pastry skin called “lumpia wrapper” enveloping a mixture of savory fillings, consisting of chopped vegetables (carrots, cabbages, green beans, bamboo shoots and leeks) and shrimp, chicken or beef. It is often served as an appetizer or snack, and might be served deep fried or fresh. We stuffed ours with veggies, garlic and beef and deep fried them.
In addition to eating, hiking, multiple family gatherings and floating in the ocean, we had the good fortune to attend the 71st Annual Aloha Festivals Floral Parade—A colorful equestrian procession of pā‘ū (long-skirted) riders, exquisite floats with cascades of Hawaiian flowers, hula hālau, marching bands and dignitaries that enlivened Kalākaua Avenue from Ala Moana Park to Kapiolani Park. The Aloha Festivals are an annual series of free cultural celebrations observed in the state of Hawaii. It is the only statewide cultural festival in the nation.
Hawaii is a warm and welcoming place. The Aloha State is home to rainbows and plentiful mountains, majestic waterfalls, and beautiful beaches meeting the turquoise ocean. The best and certainly most meaningful component of the Aloha Spirit, of course, is the people. Mahalo to Sam and Geri, their relatives and friends for making me feel a part of the Oahu ohana.
