Having traveled all over the planet to some third-world countries at the corners of the globe, including experiences with potentially life-threatening situations, it makes me particularly unsettled when my friends warn me to be careful going to Chicago. What’s going on with Chicago?
According to USA Today:
“Murders in the nation’s third-largest city are up about 72%, while shootings have surged more than 88% in the first three months of 2016 compared with the same period last year, according to data released Friday by the Chicago Police Department. Police said the disturbing rise in violence is driven by gangs and mostly contained to a handful of pockets on the city’s South and West sides.”
Chicago has historically been synonymous with crime. Chicago’s criminal reputation long preceded Al Capone and the beer wars. By the end of the 1840s, observers both within the city and beyond regularly noted the existence of an identifiable criminal underworld. In the words of the Democrat, it was “getting to be a notorious fact that robbers, pickpockets, thimble riggers [literally, those who played the three-shell game, but more broadly any who used sly tricks to cheat] are perfectly at home in our city.”
The visibility of vice enhanced the city’s criminal reputation. At midcentury, Chicago reportedly had more gambling establishments than the larger city of Philadelphia and more per capita than New York. Vice first concentrated in an area along the Chicago River known as “the Patches,” places, as the Tribune put it, of “the most beastly sensuality and darkest crimes.”
So wicked was the city’s reputation that many saw the Fire of 1871 as divine retribution against a modern-day Sodom and Gomorrah. Lawlessness after the conflagration gave no cause for optimism. “The city,” one newspaper reported, “is infested with a horde of thieves, burglars and cut-throats, bent on plunder, and who will not hesitate to burn, pillage and even murder.”
You won’t see that on any tourism slogan or advertisement. Since I’ve been coming to Chicago since I was in junior high with no incidences of crime, I choose to focus on the cosmopolitan nature of this Midwest metropolis. It’s a city known for shopping and eating. And Oprah. What’s not to love?
I came to Chicago this time for a short business trip. I stayed at the W City Center located downtown on Adams. Shopping within walking distance includes State Street, featuring Macy’s, Nordstrom Rack and Saks Off Fifth Avenue. I managed to cover all of State Street on my first free afternoon. The W City Center is also in close proximity to the theatres.
I was fortunate to be invited to a retirement dinner at the Cliff Dwellers on the 22nd floor of the building at 200 South Michigan Avenue. In 1907, Chicago author Hamlin Garland and friends founded the Attic Club, which two years later was re-named The Cliff Dwellers. Now, as then, it is a private club and functions as a non-profit organization for men and women either professionally engaged in, or who support, the fine arts and the performing arts.
Since its 1996 move from atop Symphony Center (formerly Orchestra Hall) next door, all the facilities of The Cliff Dwellers Club are located in the 22nd floor penthouse of the office building at the southwest corner of Michigan Avenue at Adams Street. Its lakefront facilities overlook Millennium Park and the Art Institute of Chicago, offering some of the most spectacular views of the city and Lake Michigan. The artwork on display in the dining room reflected India, which seemed to foreshadow my upcoming sojourn there at Thanksgiving.
My favorite restaurant in Chicago and one of my top choices in the entire country is located adjacent to the world’s largest Polo store, the Chicago Flagship on Michigan Avenue, RL Restaurant represents Ralph Lauren’s debut into the restaurant industry. Opened in 1999, the restaurant features the vision and décor of Ralph Lauren and modern city-club cuisine. This establishment is also one of Oprah’s personal favorites.
The food is inspired by American classics – seafood, steaks, chops, salads, sandwiches – a menu that stands apart from fashion and trends. Some of our more popular items are prepared table side. The cuisine combines with a unique club atmosphere– where even the first time diner is treated as a member. There are only two other Ralph Lauren dining establishments in the world—The Polo Bar in New York City and Ralph’s in Paris.
The vicinity of the restaurant to The Miracle Mile makes it a perfect watering hole for a nosh to replenish the energy required for some fierce retail therapy. All along Michigan Avenue are names, names, names: Macy’s, Bloomies, Saks, Cartier, Louis Vuitton, Burberry, Gucci, Tiffany & Co., to highlight just the tip of the iceberg. When you’ve exceeded your shopping budget, consider visiting one of the many parks and museums that are unique to Chicago.
The Field Museum of Natural History, for example, is offering what’s virtually a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Stand among larger-than-life soldiers in The Field Museum’s newest exhibition, “China’s First Emperor and His Terracotta Warriors.” Tasked to guard Qin Shihuangdi’s tomb for eternity, archers, infantrymen, and armored officers hold watch over a striking underground model of China’s first empire. Explore the life of the ruler who vanquished his rivals, unified China’s many warring states, constructed the first Great Wall, built roads throughout his vast territory, and standardized China’s script, currency, weights, and measures. Learn about his desire to reign over the universe and his obsession with immortality. See priceless treasures from one of the world’s greatest archaeological discoveries, including the fierce warriors that are so revered.
The Field Museum is the only place in North America they can be seen this year. The exhibit costs $41.80 with tax and runs through January 8, 2017. This checked an item of my bucket list in a timely fashion. Making the pilgrimage to Xian, China to see the Terracotta Warriors on our Grand Asia tour earlier this year was about the only thing we failed to accomplish. Now I won’t have to go back to China, after all.
Forget the crime, make a visit to Chicago part of your future travel plans. The best times to visit are in the spring and fall. Summer is too hot and winter too cold. “Hamilton: An American Musical” opens on September 27 if you need a good excuse.
And don’t forget your Garrett’s popcorn. The unique Garrett Mix features CaramelCrisp mixed with CheeseCorn. It’s irresistible, and they put moist towelettes in the bag to wipe the orange residue off your fingers.